[Col_C]

"Crevice Corrosion" and "Stress Corrosion Cracking" are probably both responsible for these failures IMO.
Google them if you're interested, both well known phenomenon to engineers.

 

[makkan00]

Ok, here is an edited version of the diagram. It should give you some clarity as to how it sits /fits into the car.

Bolts marked in red should be changed.

PS: Light green is the landmark showing the horizontal position of the steering wheel rack bolt.

 

[makkan00]

In one year of ownership, this is the preventative work that we have done (including rectifying few issues):

-Both batteries replaced
-Steering wheel rack bolts replaced
-Driver door actuator changed
-Rear Camera fogging issue rectified

Work pending:
Haldex pump service
Rear Tyres are due to be changed soon.

The burning questions which I have:
1- Annual service is due soon. Shall I stick with the main dealer (bent over and cough £485-635, two dealers and different quotes for the same service)? Or go with Indy which will be £250-300 max, however, they cannot update the service history or JLR website. What are others doing if they go with independent garages?

2- Keep the car or sell it. Mrs like it but I am getting bored of these unnecessary expenses/work. I am thinking of going for X4 or X5. Tough question and not sure if someone has gone from Evoque to X4 or X5?

Will appreciate the input of others / sharing their experiences.

 

[rencar]

Does the Model Year 2019/2020 Evoque have a Haldex pump or is it a different setup?

 

[makkan00]

Does the Model Year 2019/2020 Evoque have a Haldex pump or is it a different setup?

Honestly, not sure about it. Sorry.

 

[makkan00]

Ok, was searching for steering wheel rack failures and came across similar issues with BMW. I have looked at Merc, Tesla and BMWs and the most comprehensive details are given in the BMWs repair manual.

Summary:
-This repair manual gives detailed instructions (see attachment to this post.
-manufactured enhanced bolts which can be found here. Not sure what is that green paste thing on those bolts but they are somehow supposed to avoid snapping these.
-they are changing all five bolts.
-and they recommend completing wheel alignment after changing this.

I wish I found this earlier and would have gone with BMW bolts. I hope this helps others.

 

[XZ4]

Green paste is threadlock i think

 

[Doink]

I thought that too but wasn't sure if I was looking at the right thing, your post originally said blue, but if thats what you mean then it just looks like thread locker

 

[CoolBlueWhyte]

Ok, was searching for steering wheel rack failures and came across similar issues with BMW. I have looked at Merc, Tesla and BMWs and the most comprehensive details are given in the BMWs repair manual.

Summary:
-This repair manual gives detailed instructions (see attachment to this post.
-manufactured enhanced bolts which can be found here. Not sure what is that green paste thing on those bolts but they are somehow supposed to avoid snapping these.
-they are changing all five bolts.
-and they recommend completing wheel alignment after changing this.

I wish I found this earlier and would have gone with BMW bolts. I hope this helps others.

Really interesting find Mac, well done.
BMW certainly have taken things seriously and give great instructions. They specify torque plus angle to get the right tightness, and yes that green/blue on the thread is certainly screwlock.
The wax coating is an interesting addition.
The replacement bolts just look like anodised aluminium, I suppose they believe they are strong enough if they don't corrode.

 

[CoolBlueWhyte]

The burning questions which I have:
1- Annual service is due soon. Shall I stick with the main dealer (bent over and cough £485-635, two dealers and different quotes for the same service)? Or go with Indy which will be £250-300 max, however, they cannot update the service history or JLR website. What are others doing if they go with independent garages?

2- Keep the car or sell it. Mrs like it but I am getting bored of these unnecessary expenses/work. I am thinking of going for X4 or X5. Tough question and not sure if someone has gone from Evoque to X4 or X5?

Will appreciate the input of others / sharing their experiences.

1. I‘d go with the Indy, if they can’t update the OLSH just ensure you get a good paper invoice with all parts detailed and make sure they fill in and stamp your paper service book.
For twice the price you definitely do not get twice the value.

2. I’d have the Evoque over an X4 or X5 every day of the week!

 

[makkan00]

I thought that too but wasn't sure if I was looking at the right thing, your post originally said blue, but if thats what you mean then it just looks like thread locker

It did.... perhaps Mak going colour blind

Really interesting find Mac, well done.
BMW certainly have taken things seriously and give great instructions. They specify torque plus angle to get the right tightness, and yes that green/blue on the thread is certainly screwlock.
The wax coating is an interesting addition.
The replacement bolts just look like anodised aluminium, I suppose they believe they are strong enough if they don't corrode.

Agreed with that comment 'anodised aluminium'. I guess they are still keen to keep weight low or perhaps confident that these bolts can hold the pressure.

This is where I like beamers as they do things systematically and instructions are available so easily... let it be a recall or any modification. They actually promote modifications and retrofits by launching kits with clear instructions.

 

[makkan00]

1. I‘d go with the Indy, if they can’t update the OLSH just ensure you get a good paper invoice with all parts detailed and make sure they fill in and stamp your paper service book.
For twice the price you definitely do not get twice the value.

2. I’d have the Evoque over an X4 or X5 every day of the week!

Thanks, Dave for your input.

re: Indy, I have found this

Evoque, F1AD22B

Major Service for your 2.2 TD Evoque using Original Equipment to Land Rover Schedules

www.dsautomotive.co.uk

going to ring them at some point and book the annual service.


re: the second bullet. I like the shape of Evoque and its features and would agree with your comment. The only exception is reliability.

 

[makkan00]

It's been a while since I updated this so a good time to share a few things/updates. Hope all of you are doing well and keeping this forum alive.


1- I can confirm that steering wheel alignment is required after changing bolts. I have noticed that our steering wheel was slightly out of alignment and got it done.

2- Good news is that the BBC watchdog is covering the JLR steering rack bolts story tonight. JLR has already issued an extended warranty on these bolts and agreed to change the rack if those bolts fail. Let's hope that they issue a recall.

3- We had a minor oil leakage under the engine/auto gearbox (picked up by We'Fix Autocentres) while our car was having bolts changed. Went to JLR dealers in Sidcup. Excellent dealers (you get a daily text with updates). Gearbox had to come out twice to get oil leakage resolved and JLR extended warranty paid a bill of £1100. Looking at the invoice, there were few gaskets that needed replacing and top-up of gearbox oil.

4- Extended warranty renewed for £980ish. I guess that is a sign that we are keeping the car

5- Trialled Jaguar ipace. Impressed with 400ish BHP (394BHP actual figure) and liked it. Didn't like touch screen climate control though and a tiny boot. Funny that within few miles cruise control and lane assistant function stopped working.

 

[HmmmUK]

@makkan00 Thanks for the heads-up on the Watchdog steering rack item

 

[makkan00]

I noticed that our car lost the panoramic sunroof blind 'one-click opening/closing' function since it went to the dealer.

I could not find the process of calibrating panoramic roof sunblind in the manual or online. After a deep dig and with a bit of experimentation, this method has worked so posting it here for others:

Evoque (2011-2019) Panoramic sunroof blind opening/closing calibration:

• Start the engine, turn off the radio and AC so you can hear things clearly.
• Close the roof blind. Release the close button once the sunroof blind is fully closed. (if your roof blind is already closed, then skip this step).
• Press and hold the close button (roof blind switch) for @ 20-25 seconds until a double click sound is heard (sound is similar to roof blind motor reaching its limits).
• Release the switch - within 3 seconds press and hold the close button (roof blind switch) again.
• The blind will open 1/5 and close itself (while you keep the close button pressed).
• Once the roof blind has stopped moving, release the switch and turn off your car.
• The blind has now been reset.