[XZ4]

The one where you disconnect the battery then touch the 2 leads together ?

 

[9492]

12 months ago
Philskil helped a young lady out the other day by doing battery reset , it worked put the car back to sinc
Here’s his instructions

@Nat are you trying to fix this yourself still?


Are you capable of removing the battery lead? if so you can remove the Black wired one only and touch it to nothing else at all, so take off the Black lead, that's the big round connector clamped with a small bolt and hold it in the air, I would try a few minutes first, replace and test, if that does not work try wrapping it in something insulating like a cloth safely and leaving for half an hour before replacing (this should hard reset the car). Don't touch the Red connector at any point with anything.


Just removing the battery should not upset the car, but clearing all the memory (a Hard reset) will hopefully get it all back in sync again if having a flat battery has caused some i

 

[9492]

Right .... if it’s new to you and has been sat for a while it could be a slight power drain on battery this is what happened to Nats ....this meant the locks went out of sync she did the suggested reset and it worked ... I just read through the thread ....

 

[9492]

I’d try this before going out and spending money on something that might not be necessary!

 

[KEvinW]

Thanks guys. Yes still in warranty until May. Will try that route.

 

[Disappointed owner]

Hi,
I'm new to this forum
I've just come back from my local garage, pretty annoyed.
For the last 1 week, my drivers door won't unlock from the outside - I have to open the passenger door, jump onto the seat and unlock the driver door manually from the inside.
Unfortunately , locking the car is even more inconvenient: I need to remove the silver part of the key fob, take out the manual key, remove the lock cover on the door of my car, and lock the car manually! I need to do this each time I lock the car - what a headache!
My local garage in North London - which is a respected outfit who I have used for years - has quoted me over £300 for a diagnosis and repair. They also told me this is a very common problem with Range Rovers and they've diagnosed this problem several times this year.
My car is unfortunately outside warranty ; I purchased it new in 2014 and the warranty expired last year.
I am pretty annoyed as this is clearly a manufacturing fault . I have not done anything to the door which may have triggered this. I am really not happy to fork out the considerable sum of over £300 for something which seems to be a Range Rover manufacturing issue, given that its such a widespread problem.
Can anyone suggest any solutions to this?

My car is in for the 2nd time in 3 months it cost me £300 for the drivers door lock replacement and they say the passenger side lock needs replacing at just under £300. On top of that I’ve been told there may be an issue with one of the back door locks. Having had the car for 4.5 years, doing less than 30k miles from new and had numerous call backs for so called other manufacturing issues And other niggles, I’ve decided the time is right to sell. It definitely won’t be another Range Rover/Land Rover or Jaguar.

 

[Bazz]

Hi Donna, is this how you work the De-Fib kit???? ❓

 

[Sammie]

Seems a bit fiddly the cable removal bits (and then re-fitting the cables), other than that, think its doable using this video..!

Mine is locked shut, how do I get it to open please

 

[CoolBlueWhyte]

Hi Sammie
Now that is a good question.
Silly question but I assume you have tried opening from the inside, pulling the Leather handle towards you to take the pressure off the lock mechanism?
It’s unusual if the main mechanical part of the lock fails.

 

[Sammie]

I took door panel off and then tried pulling the cable to open to door but nothing I cant seem to get it to unlock to open the door

 

[Kevinev]

hi how do i do a reset , for the beeping problem as have replaced all locks
just disconnect the battery ?
will other setting be lost if thats done ?

 

[Kevinev]

12 months ago
Philskil helped a young lady out the other day by doing battery reset , it worked put the car back to sinc
Here’s his instructions

@Nat are you trying to fix this yourself still?


Are you capable of removing the battery lead? if so you can remove the Black wired one only and touch it to nothing else at all, so take off the Black lead, that's the big round connector clamped with a small bolt and hold it in the air, I would try a few minutes first, replace and test, if that does not work try wrapping it in something insulating like a cloth safely and leaving for half an hour before replacing (this should hard reset the car). Don't touch the Red connector at any point with anything.


Just removing the battery should not upset the car, but clearing all the memory (a Hard reset) will hopefully get it all back in sync again if having a flat battery has caused some i

ill try that now thanks for your help

 

[9492]

Let me know how it goes it’s helpful for others 😁

 

[Kevinev]

sorry had to a 400 kms round trip .
reset didn't work for my door locks , no errors on the garage OBD readers (3 different ones ) software ,
so went to get a pal who has a snap on OBD reader with the new last month updated software just newly installed and hey presto now showing :

"Door Module-Drivers door code 1"
"Error B1C39-29 "
"Key Lock Switch invalid"

So I'm now sure its the drivers door module and not the Mech
This is for the 2 Beep Beeps and no flashing of indicators when locking with the remote.

 

[Kevinev]

sorry had to a 400 kms round trip .
reset didn't work for my door locks , no errors on the garage OBD readers (3 different ones ) software ,
so went to get a pal who has a snap on OBD reader with the new last month updated software just newly installed and hey presto now showing :

"Door Module-Drivers door code 1"
"Error B1C39-29 "
"Key Lock Switch invalid"

So I'm now sure its the drivers door module and not the Mech
This is for the 2 Beep Beeps and no flashing of indicators when locking with the remote.

now where is the drivers doo module located , thanks for help

 

[9492]

Sounds really silly but mine went and assist came out .... popped off the wee grommet inside door level with handle , sprayed it with silicon spray while moving handle up and down did the latches as well been fine ever since... worth a go before dismantling it all and spending money

 

[XZ4]

I think the part you're looking for is shown at 5mins 24 secs on this clip

 

[Hannahbanana]

Hi and welcome!
I had this problem last winter! I called JLR assist the problem was solved by spraying a silicone spray( wd40 do a silicone version) on the latch of door! If you look on the door when its open there is a small black cap near the latch , remove and spray into it with extension nozzle provided, and any other bits accessable to locking mechanism!
This worked for me and has been fine since good luck

Donna its you again you are a BABE! I’m the girl who’s Evoques steering rack snapped... now LR want another £300 out of me for faulty doors as my car is having same issues this gentleman mentioned. I’m selling the car this month, cannot WAIT to give it back it has caused me so much stress and repairs

 

[9492]

Hope all works out Hannah try the silicon spray first 👍

 

[Salam kandi]

The front door {drivers side, left} of my evoque 2014 is not locking. I am preparing to do it and am ready with a new accentuator. The very useful video above shows two cables on the accentuator, but my new accentuator shows provision for three cables. Wil there be three cables once i remo
remove the door cards? can someone help?