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MY14 Jaguar F Type 3.0S Convertible
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The one where you disconnect the battery then touch the 2 leads together ?
 

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12 months ago
Philskil helped a young lady out the other day by doing battery reset , it worked put the car back to sinc
Here’s his instructions

@Nat are you trying to fix this yourself still?


Are you capable of removing the battery lead? if so you can remove the Black wired one only and touch it to nothing else at all, so take off the Black lead, that's the big round connector clamped with a small bolt and hold it in the air, I would try a few minutes first, replace and test, if that does not work try wrapping it in something insulating like a cloth safely and leaving for half an hour before replacing (this should hard reset the car). Don't touch the Red connector at any point with anything.


Just removing the battery should not upset the car, but clearing all the memory (a Hard reset) will hopefully get it all back in sync again if having a flat battery has caused some i
 

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Right .... if it’s new to you and has been sat for a while it could be a slight power drain on battery this is what happened to Nats ....this meant the locks went out of sync she did the suggested reset and it worked ... I just read through the thread ....
 

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I’d try this before going out and spending money on something that might not be necessary!
 

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Hi,
I'm new to this forum :)
I've just come back from my local garage, pretty annoyed.
For the last 1 week, my drivers door won't unlock from the outside - I have to open the passenger door, jump onto the seat and unlock the driver door manually from the inside.
Unfortunately , locking the car is even more inconvenient: I need to remove the silver part of the key fob, take out the manual key, remove the lock cover on the door of my car, and lock the car manually! I need to do this each time I lock the car - what a headache!
My local garage in North London - which is a respected outfit who I have used for years - has quoted me over £300 for a diagnosis and repair. They also told me this is a very common problem with Range Rovers and they've diagnosed this problem several times this year.
My car is unfortunately outside warranty ; I purchased it new in 2014 and the warranty expired last year.
I am pretty annoyed as this is clearly a manufacturing fault . I have not done anything to the door which may have triggered this. I am really not happy to fork out the considerable sum of over £300 for something which seems to be a Range Rover manufacturing issue, given that its such a widespread problem.
Can anyone suggest any solutions to this?
My car is in for the 2nd time in 3 months it cost me £300 for the drivers door lock replacement and they say the passenger side lock needs replacing at just under £300. On top of that I’ve been told there may be an issue with one of the back door locks. Having had the car for 4.5 years, doing less than 30k miles from new and had numerous call backs for so called other manufacturing issues And other niggles, I’ve decided the time is right to sell. It definitely won’t be another Range Rover/Land Rover or Jaguar.
 

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Hi Donna, is this how you work the De-Fib kit???? ❓ (y) ;)
 
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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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Hi Sammie
Now that is a good question.
Silly question but I assume you have tried opening from the inside, pulling the Leather handle towards you to take the pressure off the lock mechanism?
It’s unusual if the main mechanical part of the lock fails.
 

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I took door panel off and then tried pulling the cable to open to door but nothing I cant seem to get it to unlock to open the door
 
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