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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I think that there is leak between EGR Valve and Cooler because I can see coolant drops and also color when using ultraviolet lamp.

Is the coolant circulating only in cooler and if yes, is new cooler needed or is it possible to repair it somehow?
Also, is it reasonable to buy second hand cooler or only new one?


9770
 

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Put some 'Radweld' in the cooling system, that will stop it.
Or an old fashioned way was to put a tin full on 'Colmans Mustard powder' in the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Put some 'Radweld' in the cooling system, that will stop it.
Or an old fashioned way was to put a tin full on 'Colmans Mustard powder' in the radiator.
Thanks about quick reply, that sounds more easy than replacement of gaskets or other parts. I have not opened this before, and don’t know construction of cooler and valve but is it possible that coolant is also leaking inside to valve and can it make any harm there?
 

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How much is your coolant going down and what time scale.?
If you are going to use a 'Sealant' then if it is leaking inside then it should stop that up as well.
Small amounts of water in a engine will not do any harm.

I have done experiments in the past with car engines by Injecting Water (in a controlled manner ) in a engines intake for economy and power boost :)
As used on WW2 Merlin Spitfire Engines for take off boost, my father was A Rolls Royce Aero Engineer :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How much is your coolant going down and what time scale.?
If you are going to use a 'Sealant' then if it is leaking inside then it should stop that up as well.
Small amounts of water in a engine will not do any harm.

I have done experiments in the past with car engines by Injecting Water (in a controlled manner ) in a engines intake for economy and power boost :)
As used on WW2 Merlin Spitfire Engines for take off boost, my father was A Rolls Royce Aero Engineer :)
… usually the Spitfire engine makes around fifteen to ninetheen hundred horsepower and by using water it can be an Engine with big E :)

Evoque is not so ”thirsty” for coolant as my former Freelander KV6 was, and she has been using only one liter in half year or so. Let’s see what I will do with this :)
 

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Dynamic 3 door, 2013, SD4, santorini black with pimento and ebony
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Hi, when they changed my EGR they checked for coolant leaks as it can perforate inside. They advised that if it is perforated it would take out the EGR before long.
Personally I think fitting a second hand cooler is false economy as it is the labour that is expensive to remove the EGR and cooler.
I would not use a sealant as a permanent fix. They may over time clog other parts of the cooling system.
I would fit a new cooler and a new EGR. The EGR is £150 extra (Pierburg) and no more labour to fit, then you can forget about future problems for many years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks about reply and comments - If I get time, I will take EGR out at this weekend and post to here my findings. There are good instructions in Service Manual but I guess that still it will take a whole day to get EGR on my hands - and if there are any unexpected things coming up, it will take longer :(
 

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Hi,
I think you have to drain the coolant then remove the EGR and cooler as one unit as one of the EGR bolts is not reachable.
Let us know how you get on please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi,
I think you have to drain the coolant then remove the EGR and cooler as one unit as one of the EGR bolts is not reachable.
Let us know how you get on please.
Yesterday I get the EGR Valve and Cooler out but yet open those. Today I will pressurize coolant and exhaust inlets and see if there is something notable. After that I will take a look inside.

According service manual the EGR connecting pipe should be discharged and replace by new. It might be a good idea but costly. Is there any other way to get tight connection between pipe and EGR Cooler?

Also I noticed that there is a oil leak from camshaft cover and there seem’s to be some sealant.
Is this original design?
9816


Coolant residual in thread
9817


Connection pipe to EGR cooler is in good shape but in service manual is written ”CAUTION: Discard the componen” :(
9818
 

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Hi. They did not replace my pipe when changing the EGR. If you get a new EGR you need to recalibrate the air path. I am not sure what this involves I guess it is resetting some parameters.
Hope this helps.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi. They did not replace my pipe when changing the EGR. If you get a new EGR you need to recalibrate the air path. I am not sure what this involves I guess it is resetting some parameters.
Hope this helps.
Thanks about quick reply and comments - I have some diagnostic tool with possibility to reset EGR, I will try that when everything is back on place. I will update my findings later at today. Gasket seems to be quite expensive, one between cooler and valve, and second between valve and pipe - total 45 Euros … I did not even ask the price of valve and/or cooler :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks about quick reply and comments - I have some diagnostic tool with possibility to reset EGR, I will try that when everything is back on place. I will update my findings later at today. Gasket seems to be quite expensive, one between cooler and valve, and second between valve and pipe - total 45 Euros … I did not even ask the price of valve and/or cooler :)
I fed about 1 bar of pressure inside the cooling and air came out of the area next to the seal. Please, do you have any idea about this?
Is it some "thermal fuse" or just a broken rubber seal between the stainless steel and the silumin body?
9837

9838
 

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Hi you are at the limit of my knowledge here, I am unsure what you mean by pressure inside the cooling, do you mean where the water flows or where the gas flows? the two should be completely separate, if pressure is getting out of the water system in the cooler I would suspect the cooler has perforated and needs replacing.
As far as I know the egr valve has no contact with water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi you are at the limit of my knowledge here, I am unsure what you mean by pressure inside the cooling, do you mean where the water flows or where the gas flows? the two should be completely separate, if pressure is getting out of the water system in the cooler I would suspect the cooler has perforated and needs replacing.
As far as I know the egr valve has no contact with water.
Sorry for unclear explanation. I appreciate your time and feedback here … and the questions are easy, but the hard task is to find the right answers :)

I closed the exhaust inlet and supplied compressed air to the exhaust outlet and found no leaks. I then closed the cooling pipe outlet and fed air to the cooling inlet - and this small hole in the picture became air. The inside part of the cooler is made of stainless steel and was not clogged or very dirty. The outer part of the cooler is made of silumin. Not either part was seen to be perforated also. I don't know the meaning of this "small costly hole" but coolant leaks from there :(
In this point I will replace both parts, because I don’t see a chance to fix this leak firmly :(
 

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Un-screw the 4 'allen key' bolts and have a look at the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, here are photos about seal and surfaces. For my eyes they seems to be okay?
9844
9845

9846

9847
 

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As you have it stripped down I would try and replace the seal, (maybe even use some Instant gasket as a temporary measure if you do not want to buy a new seal.) Then re test the pressure. That should identify if it is the seal or if the cooler is perforated.
No point replacing the expensive parts if that is not the problem.
If using instant gasket and it cures the problem then I would strip and clean it off and refit a new gasket.
PS I would give the EGR and cooler a thorough clean out before refitting to extend their life.
 

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#16
Top photo looks very suspect around the top water hole, If that was mine I would 'reface' that part by rubbing it on emery paper on a flat plate (I use a steel 'sole plate' of a old smoothing iron ) to remove all that oxidation .
Use the old seal with a smear of jointing paste on each side.

Clean all the 'gung' out of the valve and tubes while it's off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
#16
Top photo looks very suspect around the top water hole, If that was mine I would 'reface' that part by rubbing it on emery paper on a flat plate (I use a steel 'sole plate' of a old smoothing iron ) to remove all that oxidation .
Use the old seal with a smear of jointing paste on each side.

Clean all the 'gung' out of the valve and tubes while it's off.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll be back home over the weekend, so I’ll give it a try and let you know after that :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
#16
Top photo looks very suspect around the top water hole, If that was mine I would 'reface' that part by rubbing it on emery paper on a flat plate (I use a steel 'sole plate' of a old smoothing iron ) to remove all that oxidation .
Use the old seal with a smear of jointing paste on each side.

Clean all the 'gung' out of the valve and tubes while it's off.
Gentlemen, yesterday I found TECHNICAL BULLETIN LTB00636V3 in Topix and it's stated following:
At each end of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) cooler are rubber seals. The presence of these is indicated by 'flags' which protrude externally through small slots in the aluminium body. These flags/slots allow the seals to become contaminated which degrades the rubber resulting in coolant leaks.
Casual part number is LR022354 and it's need to replace by LR057662.

Without opening old part I am quite sure that this is also my case and I have ordered new cooler + valve - those are costly one's but there is no reliable way to repair old one :(
I found photos of new part and you can see difference in enclosed pdf.
 

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