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2015 4x4 2,2 SD4 Prestige Business Aut
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi to all.

I have been reading about breaking steering bolts and decided to try change mine to the steel ones. I ordered steel bolts from uk ebay. I find out that they are just normal M8*65 8.8 bolts, very common in europe.

The change was actually quite easy job to do!!

You have to take off front tyre and the plastick mudguard (only rear one is necessarily). Then you see the steering"thing" end, where the bolts should be. To get all three done I find this easy way: Take the big bolt (18mm end) whitch keep the steering rack in place all way off, from the side where the rackbolts are. Then go another side and bolt opposite 18mm end bolt about 1/2" out (don't take it off). Now take the lifting jack and lift that loosen bolt all way up that 1/2". Doing this will lift the rack and give you some play for steering rack bolt end. Now you can french steering rack bolt end that much that you can change all 3 bolts quite easily!

CHANGE THE BOLT ONE BY ONE!!
DON'T LOOSE THEM ALL AT ONCE!!


I did mine this way, but I was unlucky and one of the aluminium bolts was allready broken and it was totally loose. Now I have two steelbolts in place but missing one. I'm not sure is it problem or not because the aluminium one was broken anyway.
 

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This is excellent info for anyone trying to do themselves (I've been considering but also putting off as might render the car unusable)

How far in is the remaining bit, could you cut the 3rd bolt down to get enough threads in to give some support since it's been holding on 2? or are you only talking a few threads available?

Sounds like you were close to having the rack break!
 

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2015 4x4 2,2 SD4 Prestige Business Aut
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
How far in is the remaining bit, could you cut the 3rd bolt down to get enough threads in to give some support since it's been holding on 2? or are you only talking a few threads available?

Sounds like you were close to having the rack break!
Yes, I think that I was quite lucky with this. The bolt has snapped just where the threads begin. So nothing I can do if I dont drill it out or try some other way get the snapped end out. Which will be quite challencing anyway because there is not that much room.
I have some ideas that I will try. I think that I will start trying with freezing spray and left hand drill..
Actually I'm not worried at all that 2 steel bolts doesn't keep the motor in place but if I get the third one too it would be nice.

Oh, btw I put some threadlock to new bolts to make sure they keep in place.
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2015 4x4 2,2 SD4 Prestige Business Aut
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Couple pictures and toughts more..
I have taken everything off 2 times now, when I have been trying to get my broken bolt to open. I would say that I could change the bolts now about 45-60min, from start to finish. Its really easy when you know what to do.
After you have take the main bolts off from the bottom it is important that you lift the wheel hub a bit, like picture where is the red jack. This will lift the rack end and it is much easier to french steering rack up. You can actually lift it by your hand when helped from strut but you still need someting to keep it up.
If you want to change bolts I would do next thing before you take first steering rack bolt off: When you have get everythin apart and lifted the strut a bit, take the T45 witch will fit to steering rack bolts. Fit it every bolt 1, 2 , 3 at time and give it cently moment. So soft that it wont open but you will know if there is some bolt all ready broken! If so, you could take your car for LR to be inspected I think (in UK). If every bolt seems to be just fine you can try to change them.
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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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Excellent summary and pictures Oboy.
The Facebook recall pages have been much quieter, but still a fair few reporting broken racks.
You certainly have documented the straight forward way of resolving this problem.
There have been many posts of either the wrong bolts being replaced or removing the sub frame, anti roll bar, etc. making it a big job, your experience and write up is great.
Did you manage to get your broken screw/bolt out of the motor?
Are the 18mm (head) bolts holding the rack in place, fitted bolts ensuring the alignment when tightened or is there some play in them meaning that checking the tracking may be advisable? How tight are they?

Next time you strip it down, you should shoot a video and upload to YouTube - as you are quite the expert now :)
 

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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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Ahh I found the tightness figure…now that is tight!

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2015 4x4 2,2 SD4 Prestige Business Aut
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes the 18mm are TIGHT and they should be when putting back..;) I used tyre lever to get them loose and back. I put some thred lock them as well. They will be aligned when in place, so no play or need to check tracking after done, as I see it.

In my case with cracked bolt. no, I didn't get it out. I even could drill with 5mm left hand drill to it and get bolt remove tap in to it, but it was too oxidised to get out. When I was trying (for some time!) to get snapped bolt out I start to thinking that it would be nice if somebody had sayed that try all bolts before you take them out. In my case it was second bolt that has allready gone. Even it look good for outside. So when I was get first done, and second was broken I had to think really hard what to do!! In my country there is no warranty at all for these steering racks.
:mad:
 

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Re broken bolt.
A set of 'easy outs' bolt removal tools would help.

Can you screw in a new bolt at all into the the hole where the broken bolt is.

If you can with some very careful measurement and then cut the new bolt to screw in and have a small clearance so it does not hit the broken bolt that's still in the hole.
And do not over tighten it, put plenty of screw lockon it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re broken bolt.
A set of 'easy outs' bolt removal tools would help.

Can you screw in a new bolt at all into the the hole where the broken bolt is.

If you can with some very careful measurement and then cut the new bolt to screw in and have a small clearance so it does not hit the broken bolt that's still in the hole.
And do not over tighten it, put plenty of screw lockon it.
Thanks
I have different removal sets but no go. Even that bolts are very easy to change the treads are so deep that it is quite challenching to drill or tap if bolt get broken (have to make tools for that). I once got one bit to hold and could get much force I want to it, but I could not get the cracked end move.

There is no thread to see where to screw bolt. Bolt has snapped from worst place. I did make 8mm lefthand drill and I might give it one more try. If I drill some of the treads off and then try removing bits again.
But I'm not sure is it wise or not. The motor will with no doubt stay in place with two steel bolts. And if I have understand right there is seperate system inside which tighten the belt. So as long as the motor will be hold agains the "frame" there is no problem (I hope..)🙃.
 

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MY12 | 2.2 L Diesel | Dynamic Lux
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Just thinking out loud for if/when I give mine a go, is it worth me spraying penetrating oil on the EPAS bolts before trying to undo them? 🤔
 

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Yes, probably in good time too, but if they're gonna break, they're gonna break!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just thinking out loud for if/when I give mine a go, is it worth me spraying penetrating oil on the EPAS bolts before trying to undo them? 🤔
Hi.
I don't belive that it will help very much. Because the threads are so deep that I can't see the oil getting in to the threads.
But better be safe than sorry.🙂
 

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MY12 | 2.2 L Diesel | Dynamic Lux
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What about some heat? Or is it just a matter of holding my breath & doing one at a time? 🤞🤮
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you have to choose, go with spray. I'm affraid that heat can damage the motor or rubber belt inside!
 

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MY12 | 2.2 L Diesel | Dynamic Lux
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If you have to choose, go with spray. I'm affraid that heat can damage the motor or rubber belt inside!
Yeah true, didn't think of of that.
 

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My12 fuji white dynamic lux 3 door 2.2sd4 pan roof 360 cameras black pack heated w/screen auto boot
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Hi all ,went into a local independent lr stockists for cple trim clips . He randomly asked how long have you owned your evoque " 12 months " I replied ,are you aware of the possibility of steering bolts shearing " no " I said . It's booked in for Thurs £90 + vat at a garage he recommended . Seems reasonable to what I hear quoted if they go
 

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I think that's well worth it, not just for the safety aspect, but aslo for your peace of mind.
Will that cost stay the same if they shear any bolts when removing them?
I would imagine a lot of extra work if that happens - that's what puts me off having a go myself.
 

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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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Hi all ,went into a local independent lr stockists for cple trim clips . He randomly asked how long have you owned your evoque " 12 months " I replied ,are you aware of the possibility of steering bolts shearing " no " I said . It's booked in for Thurs £90 + vat at a garage he recommended . Seems reasonable to what I hear quoted if they go
That sounds like a great price. Where is that?

I would ask them to carefully try each bolt in turn (one at a time) If one of the bolts shears off when they try to remove them ask them to reassemble, pay them the £90 and take it to landrover on the N613 warranty.

This is what I plan to do myself this year before the extended warranty runs out.
 

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@CoolBlueWhyte If the vehicle is still driveable won't LR just dismiss it?
i.e. They seem to only get involved if the rack has failed due to the motor coming detached.
 
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