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Discussion Starter #1
Calling all DIY maintenance bods out there. What parts do you use when self servicing your Evoque? Being in the trade, I use parts from my local motor factors on customers cars and it’s all made to an OE equivalent standard. Maybe it’s phsycological but for my Evoque, I'm using genuine OE service parts. After my free LR service plan finished last year, I’m servicing it myself this year so I’ve ordered an OE service pack from Matford Land Rover (oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter, sump plug washer) for just under £70 and 6 litres of Motul 8100 eco clean + C1 oil from Opie Oils for £61. So that’s £131 on parts just to service my own car - that’s the most I’ve spent on service parts for one car in my life and I’ve been in the trade for nearly 45 years!!!!! I do use OE equivalent parts on our other two cars though and I’d probably use them on your Evoque if I was servicing it. :D

What about your Evoque - genuine OE or OE equivalent service parts when doing it yourself?
 

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Cabin filter was OE equivalent about £12, Brakes OE brembos
 

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MY14 Jaguar F Type 3.0S Convertible
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I gave up working on my cars myself years ago. Like most on here I use the main dealers now as things are just so technical and beyond most diy'ers. I don't have a problem with non OE parts as long as they are up to standard and would consider using a good independant garage I could trust. The problem with this is all the updates that the Evoque seems to get on a regular basis. I don't think most independants could do them.

Plus, my brother who is a qualified mechanic says I'm dangerous with a spanner in my hand :grin:
 
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I have also given up doing my own servicing etc like XZ4, far too complicated now it’s all computerised. I have a very good independent I’ve used for my other cars and will use for the Evoque once the warranty (ha ha) has expired. I always insist on genuine OM parts though. Again as XZ4 says the updates keep coming by JLR which could pose a problem, also talking with my local he does not use Topix so can’t record the service. Dealer labour charges are just stupid now, how the h*ll can they warrant over £130 an hour for wielding a spanner and knockometer?
 

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Just curious Steve, what made you choose the Motul oil over the other brands (Shell, Texaco, Millers etc) that Opie suggest, especially as Motul is the most expensive?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s the most expensive and I’m not paying for it! :D
 

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Best reason ever!:grin:
 

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Just curious Steve, what made you choose the Motul oil over the other brands (Shell, Texaco, Millers etc) that Opie suggest, especially as Motul is the most expensive?
It's not easy finding an oil that covers LR's spec: "STJLR.03.5007" for the 2L Diesel.
I'm not sure if the 2.2L is a different spec? (being lazy here) - I'm guessing Steve D has looked into this :)


EDIT - I had to take look...
For the 2.2L
Diesel with Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)
5W/30 - Ford 934-B specification or Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow C1

So not widely available...
 

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Put STJLR.03.5007 into eBay. You can get 5L delivered for £23.99.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just curious Steve, what made you choose the Motul oil over the other brands (Shell, Texaco, Millers etc) that Opie suggest, especially as Motul is the most expensive?
Well, after ordering this I got an email telling me it was out of stock until October 1st and asking me whether I wanted to wait until then or have a refund. I said I’d wait but had another email today telling me it now won’t be until 22nd and did I want to wait or have a refund. I phoned them and swapped the order for Fuchs Titan Pro C1. That’ll be here on Wednesday. Definitely!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Famous last words! Well, it was here yesterday...……….. but only some of it! The Motul comes in a 5+1 litre containers. The Fuchs comes (or should come) in a 4+1+1 litres. They only sent a 4+1 so I phoned them up, they apologised and are posting the other 1 litre today which should be here on Thursday. Good job I'm ordering parts in advance of my service -- I first ordered it on Sept 15th.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I did the service today. Nothing spectacular. Air filter still looked like new but changed it anyway, as did the pollen filter. Changed that too - a bit fiddly but absolutely no tools required. Just remove the fuse panel cover, then remove three rectangular headed press studs to allow another piece of trim to be removed, then remove (by unclipping) the pollen filter housing end cover and remove the filter by bending it past the fuse holder bracket - refitting is a reversal of the above.

Oil filter. I used my 27mm flexible ratchet spanner but boy, it was tight all the way out - I had to slip the ring end of a 24mm spanner over the jaws of the ratchet spanner to get the leverage to undo it. I was thinking at one point that the last person must have cross threaded it putting it on but when refitting, I used the new seal that came with the filter, lubricated it with a drop of oil and it went back a treat. This is how the 27mm spanner fits on:



And this is how I loosened it using another spanner!



Fuel filter. One of the easiest to do. Remove the 4 x 6mm nuts to remove the metal shield/bracket. Remove the 3 x 6mm Allen screws that hold it down and loosen (but don’t completely remove) the fuel pipes. Then, before fitting the new filter, fill with fuel using a piece of hose and a small funnel until the fuel runs out of the other outlets. See picture:



It’s then simply a matter of whipping the four fuel pipes off, remove the old filter and snap the pipes back on to the new filter. You can then bolt it up, refit the shield and start the engine.
 

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Well, I did the service today. Nothing spectacular. Air filter still looked like new but changed it anyway, as did the pollen filter. Changed that too - a bit fiddly but absolutely no tools required. Just remove the fuse panel cover, then remove three rectangular headed press studs to allow another piece of trim to be removed, then remove (by unclipping) the pollen filter housing end cover and remove the filter by bending it past the fuse holder bracket - refitting is a reversal of the above.

Oil filter. I used my 27mm flexible ratchet spanner but boy, it was tight all the way out - I had to slip the ring end of a 24mm spanner over the jaws of the ratchet spanner to get the leverage to undo it. I was thinking at one point that the last person must have cross threaded it putting it on but when refitting, I used the new seal that came with the filter, lubricated it with a drop of oil and it went back a treat. This is how the 27mm spanner fits on:



And this is how I loosened it using another spanner!



Fuel filter. One of the easiest to do. Remove the 4 x 6mm nuts to remove the metal shield/bracket. Remove the 3 x 6mm Allen screws that hold it down and loosen (but don’t completely remove) the fuel pipes. Then, before fitting the new filter, fill with fuel using a piece of hose and a small funnel until the fuel runs out of the other outlets. See picture:



It’s then simply a matter of whipping the four fuel pipes off, remove the old filter and snap the pipes back on to the new filter. You can then bolt it up, refit the shield and start the engine.
I like your post, are you saying that no bleeding is required if I follow this method.
 

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Calling all DIY maintenance bods out there. What parts do you use when self servicing your Evoque? Being in the trade, I use parts from my local motor factors on customers cars and it’s all made to an OE equivalent standard. Maybe it’s phsycological but for my Evoque, I'm using genuine OE service parts. After my free LR service plan finished last year, I’m servicing it myself this year so I’ve ordered an OE service pack from Matford Land Rover (oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter, sump plug washer) for just under £70 and 6 litres of Motul 8100 eco clean + C1 oil from Opie Oils for £61. So that’s £131 on parts just to service my own car - that’s the most I’ve spent on service parts for one car in my life and I’ve been in the trade for nearly 45 years!!!!! I do use OE equivalent parts on our other two cars though and I’d probably use them on your Evoque if I was servicing it. :D

What about your Evoque - genuine OE or OE equivalent service parts when doing it yourself?
For MY12 SD4 2.2 I have used Castrol edge professional C1 5/30 purchased as 6 x 1ltr bottles from mytyres.co.uk, Great price £10.69 each then purchased FRAM Oil filter from ECP.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I like your post, are you saying that no bleeding is required if I follow this method.
Yep. No bleeding at all. Fill the filter, fit it and start up.
 

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Just bought 7 liters of engine oil LIQUI MOLY Special Tec 5W-30 , and 10 liters of Automatic Transmission Fluid (Premium ATF 6) of AISIN - the same make as my Japanese gearbox AWF21 6/1.
I opt to make a good flush of the old gearbox oil with this excess volume of oil that I have bought.
Of course filters, plugs come along that.

Not doing it myself - but at a local Land Service (non authorized).
Will see how it goes.

T.
 

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What are thoughts on Petronas Syntium oil?
I can get 6 litres for around £65, so not the cheapest or should I just be looking at the spec rather than the brand?
 

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Any brand will do as long as it's the correct spec
 
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I use Petronas in my RCZ and that car is VERY particular about oil. As XZ4 has said though, it’s the spec that counts.
 
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