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Hi all, has anyone used an independent i.e. Halfords.National.AA etc to replace the battery or is it necessary to go back to jag land rover,various outlets offer the battery type but I'm just concerned about the computer settings being affected.any replies welcome,
 

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Good question


Looking in the owners manual they seem to put you off doing it yourself -
"Battery disconnection, removal, and replacement should be carried out
only by qualified personnel. Consult a retailer/authorised repairer.
"

and...


"EFFECTS OF DISCONNECTING
Disconnecting the battery can affect a number of vehicle systems,
especially if there is insufficient battery power before disconnection.
For example, the alarm may trigger, depending on its state, when the
battery is disconnected. If the alarm does sound, use the smart key to
disarm the security system. The windows may need recalibrating to
operate correctly.
NOTES
After reconnecting the battery, a number of systems may need to be reset.
"<div ="note-"="">



Searching the forum I can see a few people have replaced the battery themselves.
This thread mentions resetting the windows:
http://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/FORUM/replaced-battery-myself-lr-tech-needed_topic12099_post145234.html?KW=#145234

Hopefully someone that's 'been there, done that' will be along to fill in the blanks...
 

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I've seen it mentioned that the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) needs to be reset after putting in a new Battery, but as to how true this actually is I don't know. But it seems the car will still function after replacing the battery, whether it's doing the right thing for the battery though, i'm not sure.

Would like to know the definitive answer though as into my 6th year now!
 

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Hi PhiSkill........As a side,did you take out a warranty after three years?
 

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I had my battery replaced (Not a Land Rover dealer). I contacted my local LR dealer and they said the system would settle back to normal after a week. I did need to do the window reset but other than that I have had no problems.
 

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johnh said:
Hi PhiSkill........As a side,did you take out a warranty after three years?
No I have an approved Independent near me, so I just use them, when I can't do it myself.

Warranty was too expensive at near £1000 a year.
 

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Reading up a bit on BMS systems, it seems that they may calibrate themselves when the vehicle is left for 8 hours or more undisturbed, not sure if this applies to the Evoque but it's very likely a similar system as this is from Ford and the early Evoques have Ford Engines.

Also if you charge the battery, you shouldn't do it directly across the terminals, you should always use the ground point mentioned in the manual, this allows the BMS to detect the charging, you can connect to the positive battery Terminal though.

This also applies if you jump start Another car, link your jump cable to the ground point not the negative battery terminal.
 

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I noticed in the Owners Manual it mentioned the 'boost terminal':




This 21C tech is all new to me!
 

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That's the one I've used for jumping in the past HmmmUk.

Mine has a slightly Arced look about it, thanks to Volvo who decided to place a red marker over the -ve Battery Terminal
 

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mw139 said:
Hi all, has anyone used an independent i.e. Halfords.National.AA etc to replace the battery or is it necessary to go back to jag land rover,various outlets offer the battery type but I'm just concerned about the computer settings being affected.any replies welcome,
Any update on this @mw139 ?

It would be good to know how you got on...
 

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I can’t see it being a problem. I’ve disconnected mine several times (to swap with my wife’s Golf battery that had a duff alternator so she could drive it home) and I’ve replaced the battery itself with no problems. What about when you carry out a master reset - disconnect the battery and hold both cables together to reset everything? All I’ve ever had to do is reset the clock and windows.
 

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Just did mine a couple days ago. Not a big deal. Calibrated windows. All seems well. Would love to know the proper torque numbers for the cross brace bolts though.
 

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What Land Rover advise and what Dealers actually do can be quite different!
Pop into your local LR Dealer and you will see nearly all the cars there with side lights on.
Open the bonnet of any of these cars and you will see that they have a supply across the battery, some use the CTEK brand or equivalent that has the 13.8v supply option. This supply must be capable of delivering 10 amps or more, my CTEK can deliver 25amps.
This is useful when you want to do a software/firmware update, for instance a map update which takes about 40 mins!

All the cars in Listers have this supply directly across the battery, it certainly doesn't seem to hurt the car as there would be a queue of just sold cars turning up with faulty electronics!

There are times when I leave my car locked and alarmed in the garage for a few weeks at a time. I always connect my CTEK charger across the battery to keep it up to scratch as the alarm electronics draw a reasonable current all the time!

By the way if you do need to replace the battery, use the Remote app to put the car into 'Service Mode' as this will stop you recieving a text and possibly a phone call asking if your car has been stolen. This only happens if you have the paid security option in Pro.

Last thing, I remember changing the battery on my Discovery 3 and needed to calibrate the windows, just a full UP and DOWN as well as the sun roof which needed a full OPEN and CLOSE to calibrate it, and of course reset the clock! Quite why this can't be set from GPS or the DAB/FM signal I have no idea.

Bear in mind that not every Evoque is sold in a country that has a dealer 30-40mins away! There are plenty in Egypt and Namibia for instance, and LR dealers are a little like hens teeth in those countries!
The electronics are reasonably robust no matter what people might think, doesn't mean they don't have issues though!!

Best

Ian
 

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Just did mine a couple days ago. Not a big deal. Calibrated windows. All seems well. Would love to know the proper torque numbers for the cross brace bolts though.
Scannel I 'think' it is 10Nm or 7lb-ft to you in the USA. Certainly that is the figure for a Discovery 3 battery clamp. But do what most mechanics do, put the socket in the ratchet and hold the ratchet at the head end and do it up to hand tight with the benefit of a bit of assistance from the ratchet handle touching your arm.
Check it with a torque wrench and I am sure you will be amazed it VERY close to 10Mn!!

Best

Ian
 

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I'm wondering if @scrannel was referring to the brace/bar you have to remove to get to the battery when he said "cross brace bolts"?
I could be wrong though...
 

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Just did mine a couple days ago. Not a big deal. Calibrated windows. All seems well. Would love to know the proper torque numbers for the cross brace bolts though.
In the battery section of the factory service manual I found - The "Vehicle Body Brace Retaining Bolts" torque is 25 Nm or 18 lb-ft. The manual also has a picture of the brace with arrows pointing to the brace bolts, with the spec of 25Nm (18 lb-ft for those of us in the US).
 

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In the battery section of the factory service manual I found - The "Vehicle Body Brace Retaining Bolts" torque is 25 Nm or 18 lb-ft. The manual also has a picture of the brace with arrows pointing to the brace bolts, with the spec of 25Nm (18 lb-ft for those of us in the US).

Thanks for the several replies on this. When it stops raining (Malibu) I'll go out and deal with it. Severely!
 

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scrannel, I've just found this in the Topix workshop manual.

25Nm it is!

Ian
 

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