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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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Discussion Starter #1
Weather was good and for some reason I had some time on my hands!

I’ve had my Evoque from new and covered 78,000 miles over the last 7 years.
As it turns out that is exactly how long the front and rear discs last until just passing the minimum thickness. Min 26mm at front was 26mm, min 9mm at rear was 8.85mm

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The front pads were original and I replaced the rears at about 40,000 miles both were now about 3mm thick and were mentioned at recent MOT and service.

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REAR BRAKES MUST BE PUT IN MAINTENANCE MODE BEFORE DISASSEMBLY

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I bought the Brembo pads and discs with the UV coating for extra corrosion protection and the new carrier bolts came from JLR dealer spares.

Everything went really well, the carrier bolts were very tight but nothing that my Britool breaker bar couldn’t handle. These bolts (18mm head on the front and 15mm on the rear) were tight all the way out because of the thread lock that is already on the new bolts.
The Pins (removed with 7mm Allen key) on the front calipers needed a good clean up on the exposed part to ensure smooth action.
My brake fluid was at the Max already so I had to withdraw some before pushing the pistons back in.

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Correct lubrication of all the moving parts is really important if you want quiet, well performing brakes.
A few years ago I saw a three tube kit for Pins, Pads and Clips made by ProSlip. Different types of lubricant for each task. I still used a very light smear of copper slip behind the disk on to the hub, JLR install this dry and there was a little corrosion (sticking the disc in place) that I carefully cleaned and removed.

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I clocked the disc with a DTI to ensure that it had seated properly, less than 1 thou runout was great so put it all back together.
The front caliper bolts are done up to 200nm, which is good and tight. The rear bolts are smaller and I read they were 110nm, (this is less than the wheel nuts but they are small bolts) so unsure if this was correct I went for the engineers feel of good and tight too.
All parts lubricated (except for the bolts) and secure, pretty much job done.


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The only issue I had was that the clips in the Brembo P86 021 pad box were the wrong size, the pads were correct just the slider clips. So I cleaned up and reused the existing ones.

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On the rear brakes I took the caliper off and left the slider pins installed, this means that it is only two bolts to replace the rear pads and discs.

Wheels back on, wheel nuts to 133nm (98lb/ft) and careful test drive to start them bedding in.

I paid £190 for all the parts fitted.
JLR charge £275 + £275 for the front and rear brakes on their fixed price servicing, but any competent mechanic could do this job.
Don’t be afraid of getting a quote from your local independent garage or if you have the tools and a good level of mechanical aptitude, do it yourself.

I just thought I’d post this while the job was fresh in my mind!
 

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Nice job CBW, interesting on the rear you just undid the 2 carrier bolts and removed the whole lot as an assembly? Hadn't considered that option.

I've got full set of front and rear brembos on their way to me, my rears are getting close to needing doing (again) although my replacement Fronts are still 50%. I've also gone coated rear discs this time as was never happy with the uncoated I put on the rear last time.

Last time my rear clips replaced ok, wonder why the spring clips are now the wrong size!? Mine are the same as yours from memory.

I've also ordered replacement front spring clips this time round.
 
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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Phil, to be honest they would have easily lasted another 5,000 to 10,000 miles but it’s to get it done while I have the time and I’m good now till about 150k miles ?

On the rears I could have undone the pins and replaced the bolts but there is just no need if you are replacing the discs too. Undo the main caliper bolts and lift off as a complete unit, then just pop the rubber protection bellow off and slide apart. Really Easy! JLR must be embarrassed charging £275 for a few mins work??

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On the fronts I just cleaned and reused the existing spring clips, they certainly still had a lot of tension and spring in them.

The calipers cleaned up nicely with just brake cleaner and a wire brush.
I hope that the UV coating (another word for painted!!) lasts well as it looks so good when new.

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Great job CBW.
Brilliant pic's.(y)(y)
But do you really think that JLR could ever be embarrassed about taking you hard earned cash. I don't think so. Labour charges @£186 per hour. Disgusting.:mad::mad:
 
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MY2017 2.0 HSE Dynamic Lux
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Lovely write up - just doing my brakes after 44K miles so they've probably had a harder life than yours did ;) F & R discs were shot and I discovered that the wrong size rear discs were fitted! No wonder they had rusted strangely - the swept area was all wrong. Fitting the smaller (302mm) discs made the pad / disc mate up nicely. Just waiting for my front discs to arrive and I can complete the job.
 

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Nice job CBW but are you 100% on those torque figures? 200 Nm seems awfully high and I can’t recall ever doing caliper brackets up anywhere that tight. Have you personally checked those figures with a data book or are you going on heresay? As a rule, I’ve always found front brake caliper bracket to hub torque figures on most cars to be very roughly near to the same as the wheel torque figures. For some reason 130 Nm sticks in my mind from when did mine. Unfortunately I’m off work now due to the lockdown so unable to check my Autodata manual. Oh, and do you actually lay your tools out with such military precision or was that just for the photo? :LOL:
 

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Nice job CBW but are you 100% on those torque figures? 200 Nm seems awfully high and I can’t recall ever doing caliper brackets up anywhere that tight. Have you personally checked those figures with a data book or are you going on heresay? As a rule, I’ve always found front brake caliper bracket to hub torque figures on most cars to be very roughly near to the same as the wheel torque figures. For some reason 130 Nm sticks in my mind from when did mine. Unfortunately I’m off work now due to the lockdown so unable to check my Autodata manual. Oh, and do you actually lay your tools out with such military precision or was that just for the photo? :LOL:
 

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MY2016 Evoque Autobiography 2.0L DIESEL 5 DOOR / L538
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Nice write up. Thanks.?

I'm impressed with the quality of the factory fitted discs on mine with the thick anti corrosion coating to prevent the centre section rusting.

I've noticed the factory wheel balance weights are also anti corrosive and high quality. I've unsucessfully searched the web to find some like them so that I could get them fitted when the tyres get changed. Anyone know where they can be bought ?
 

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They should be stick-on weights so a layer of adhesive foam between the wieght and the rim. Any half-decent tyre fitting place will have them as a matter of course.
 

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MY2016 Evoque Autobiography 2.0L DIESEL 5 DOOR / L538
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Hi Steve. The OEM weights are very different to any I've seen at a tyre shop or on line. Take a look at them and you'll see what I mean (At least they are on my 20" Autobiography wheels)
 

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Hi Steve. The OEM weights are very different to any I've seen at a tyre shop or on line. Take a look at them and you'll see what I mean (At least they are on my 20" Autobiography wheels)
Got a picture?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice job CBW but are you 100% on those torque figures? 200 Nm seems awfully high and I can’t recall ever doing caliper brackets up anywhere that tight. Have you personally checked those figures with a data book or are you going on heresay? As a rule, I’ve always found front brake caliper bracket to hub torque figures on most cars to be very roughly near to the same as the wheel torque figures. For some reason 130 Nm sticks in my mind from when did mine. Unfortunately I’m off work now due to the lockdown so unable to check my Autodata manual. Oh, and do you actually lay your tools out with such military precision or was that just for the photo? :LOL:
Hi Steve
You have got me thinking now! When I did the bracket up it was certainly tight but for the size of bolt it did not seem unreasonable especially considering the force to undo them (partly due to the screw lock). I assumed this is why JLR recommend replacing the bolts.
I was a tool maker then a mechanical fitter working on both light and heavy plant so have sheared a few bolts in my time. This felt okay, good and tight.
I had seen the torque figures on BabyRR and on a freelander website. I’d posted those figures on here back in 2016 I think, and only now someone with a clue (yes you Steve) notices.
Just having a quick look on the internet there was a JLR recall on the rear brakes and they should be 110nm.
If you do have access to the official manual I’d be really interested if you could confirm the correct figures. The front bolts weren’t expensive and I could easily replace with new..

Oh and I may have tidied a little before taking the picture ?
 

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I remember needing a 2 pound club hammer on my newly bought 18mm spanner to remove the front caliper bolts last time, so good and tight is an understatement :oops:

I'll dig the manual out if I get a minute, see if it has the torques.
 
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In the days before I had a torque wrench I just had to wind them up to 'flipping' tight or FT for short :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I remember needing a 2 pound club hammer on my newly bought 18mm spanner to remove the front caliper bolts last time, so good and tight is an understatement :oops:

I'll dig the manual out if I get a minute, see if it has the torques.
Thanks Phil, if you could have a look I’d appreciate it. Hope you didn’t damage your shiny new spanner with all that welting!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
In the days before I had a torque wrench I just had to wind them up to 'flipping' tight or FT for short :LOL:
Ahhhhh so that is what the “F” stands for, I had assumed it was something else!
 
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Discussion Starter #17
The high tensile M14 bolts used on the brakes do have a reduced head size the standard spanner would be a 22mm that has much mor leverage.
The caliper bracket bolts are M14 grade 10.9 and looking at a standard tightness table should be torqued to 195nm.
So I am happy with what I’ve done and they certainly are, in RazMans words, “FT” !!

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Hi Steve.
These are the standard ones that all tyre shops seem to fit to alloy wheels, but as we all know, they eventually go rusty.

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But these are the factory fitted weights which are chunkier and have a grey anti-corrosive coating on them with no rust after 4 years:

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