[Reza_sama]

Yes I did this was last week first phone call I got through and the chap was very helpful over the phone. The only problem I have is I am abit far from Bell Eng so was looking for someone more local to me to get the job done.

 

[CraigJLR]

At 45K I thought I would do a bit of preventative maintenance and change my Haldex filter and oil. I bought the service kit from Bell engineering and it cost around 78 quid. Rather than fiddle about changing the filter in situ, I removed the haldex unit and got it on the bench to give it a thorough clean out. To remove it I first jacked the car up and put it on stands. To make things easier, I lowered the exhaust at the rear and disconnected the propshaft. To remove the rear propshaft end, I needed to lower the front of the rear axle and that involved supporting the axle with a jack and removing the front carrier bracket - 4x10mm headed bottom bolts and the two 18mm headed mounting bolts. Then it was simply a matter of disconnecting the electrical connection and removing the 4 bolts that connect the haldex unit to the axle housing. This what is left when the unit is removed.

This is the haldex unit on the bench. Look at the muck that was present on it!

I removed the paper filter and replaced it as well as the plastic pump filter. Look at the state of them! The muck seemed to be a type of gel.
Old and new filters.

Pump filter before cleaning.

And after cleaning with compressed air.

The housing had a bit of muck in it too.

Old oil and new oil.

Reassembled it, filled with new oil, ignition on for 5 minutes, topped up then withdrew 70ml. Job done.
Now, the car drives......no different to before.

Well, It is preventative. Here's to the next 45,000 miles!

Next job on the list will be to change all the transmission lubricants - auto box, front and rear axles and transfer box.

Front axle ??
Rear axle ??

it’s only got a gearbox ,IRD and rear diff/Haldex

 

[Steve D]

Front and rear diffs then.

 

[Nick12DMC]

Thanks Steve for the excellent guide. Came in very handy.
Just to add a few things I found. After completing the Haldex service my wife’s car was still having issues, skipping/jumping from back wheel on full lock.
I found a handy guide showing a test procedure here. https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/lan...er-freelander-2-fl2-range-rover-evoque-haldex-fault-finding-problems-solutions/

I took off the Haldex ECU (2 Allan bolts). And pulled the N373 solenoid valve. That was covered in the same gel/sludge that was on the pump screen. I just renewed the valve as it was potentially stuck open. Definitely worth pulling the valve if you have the unit on the bench. As it allows you to clean things and blow out the internal passages with air.
On reassembly. plug the valve into the ECU and then push the whole assembly into place. Don’t try and put the valve in and then the ECU as you can damage the electrical connector.

Car seems to be behaving now.

 

[MarkB]

Hi Steve, very interesting article. I have actually contacted Bell Engineering for a Haldex service. My recently purchased car had an issue where I turn the steering wheel to lock the rear wheel starts to slip and I feel a minor vibration. It only happens I sharp turn when coming out a parking stop for example. So I am hoping by servicing the unit it will sort this problem out...
Cheers

Did you get to the bottom of this issue? I have a similar feeling in my Evoque that I’ve just brought.

 

[XZ4]

Reza_sama hasn't been on here for over 3 years so I doubt you'll get a reply.

 

[Nick12DMC]

Had the exact same issue with the Wife’s Evoque.
Check this link for diagnostics.
https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/lan...er-freelander-2-fl2-range-rover-evoque-haldex-fault-finding-problems-solutions/
Note our car has Haldex Gen 4
1) I serviced the Haldex with new oil and filter.
Result: Car still jerking/vibration when turning on full lock.
2) Replaced N373 valve.
Result: as above.
3) Replaced Haldex Pump
Result: Problem fixed.

Hope that helps
Nick

 

[PhilSkill]

Just had my 10 year service, and had the Haldex Oil/filter changed, didn't manage to catch up with the mechanic to ask how bad it was unfortunately, but they dropped the driveshaft to get access, along with a Type A service £440 all in.

Ready now for some long trips in a few months.

 

[RRRaych]

That's a very good price. Mine's booked in for 10yr service + haldex + spark plugs tmoro...way more £££s than that 🥺

 

[PhilSkill]

Yeah I normally pay that for a B service! My local Independent 4x4 centre

 

[Oboy]

Hi,
I did this some day ago. Just want to add that for flange bolts you need E10 hex socket with 1/4 mount. And for big flange nut you need 24mm socket + bolt gun! Mayby it is possible to get out without bolt gun but my didnt come out without.

 

[Oboy]

Remember to do your Haldex service! This was my pump after one year of last service. Oil was quite dark.

 

[SausageArm]

Just serviced the wifes Evoque at 76k miles and the Haldex pump strainer was filthy

The filter element was also really dirty

Certainly looks to be worth doing on a regular basis.

 

[MIHK]

Thanks for the post and pics, I have mine booked in to be done in 3 weeks ...higher mileage so I'm expecting it's similar if not worse so keen to get it sorted.

 

[CoolBlueWhyte]

Excellent job and as you say really worth doing.
How did it go, obviously you had to strip the exhaust and prop off to get to those two serviceable parts..
Any problems or is it quite straightforward?
I only ask as I need to tackle mine later this year

 

[SausageArm]

I had the common gearbox/power transfer unit oil leak to deal with so a slightly different scenario. I removed the PTU a few days ago ready to send it to Bell Engineering for upgrade.

The front propshaft coupling had already been disconnected when removing the PTU, so all I had to do was disconnect the centre propshaft support bearing then remove the propshaft bolts from the prop/rear diff joint using an E10 torx socket.

You can start the engine, release the handbrake and put the car into neutral to allow you to rotate the prop to make accessing the flange bolts a bit easier.

Or if you don't want to start the engine while on ramps/jacks/stands, this lever on top of the 9 speed auto box can be used.

Push the lever to the right to engage neutral

Insert a 5mm peg or drill bit to hold the lever in this position , the box will then remain in neutral. Release the handbrake and you should be able to rotate the propshaft.

The diff/prop joint can be split by either jacking them apart with bolts or putting an M6 bolt in the non threaded holes and hitting it with a hammer/punch, I can get photos and more info of that tomorrow if you'd like?

Once the prop was disconnected from the rear diff, the Haldex unit was unbolted from the diff by removing 4x M8 bolts (10mm bolt head), the Haldex unit is a tight fit between the chassis, diesel tank and exhaust but I managed to remove it with the coupling still connected.

If the coupling was disconnected before removing the Haldex it'd be easier as it would give more clearance. I plan to reinstall the Haldex unit with the coupling off, then fit the coupling once installed.

Here's the Haldex removed with th diff mount and exhaust untouched.

Coupling removed from the Haldex unit. 24mm socket and an impact wrench made light work of this. Once the nut is removed I tried to use a bearing puller to pull the coupling off the diff but it didn't fit, so I held the coupling in my hand and hit the splined shaft with a hammer and brass drift to break it free.

 

[Kaspa]

WELL DONE ....

great info

 

[CoolBlueWhyte]

Great update and additional info to this important topic, thank you..

 

[SausageArm]

Cleaned the pump and mesh screen today, much better than before.

Pump housing and filter housing cleaned up too.

Waiting for a Haldex service kit to be delivered before reinstalling to the car.

 

[SausageArm]

Forgot to add this bit to my last post yesterday.

Remove the two bolts using a 4mm Allen key, then lift off the Haldex control unit.

Carefully pry the red seal away from the Haldex unit body and lift off the seal plate.

The N373 valve can now be pulled out, I found it too tight to use my fingers so used some pump pliers to gently grab the valve body and pull it out.

Some dirt and old oil in the ports, cleaned this out with brake clear and compressed air.

Then cleaned the N373 valve in the same way.

The o-rings on the valve were then lubricated with oil and the valve assembly reassembled.