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2013 Evoque Dynamic Lux In Havana
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

I have recently had issues whereby my engine management light comes on when I boot it and goes into limp mode. The fault code shows a pressure loss on the fuel rail which I have been advised MAY be the fuel filter. It only happens now and again. I have also heard that it could be from a loose/faulty fuel cap.

Now, I have noticed recently that when I close my front driver side door (I think normally after haven driven it) I get a a weird gurgling noise coming from the fuel cap area. It almost sounds like a dull lions roar!!! Short of there being a miniature lion trapped in my fuel tank, has anyone experienced this or have any idea what it might be?

I was wondering if this could be something towards what the pressure loss might be.

Many thanks,
Steve
 

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I thought this sounded familiar so did a search. But it was another thread by you:

What happens to the noise if you remove the fuel filler cap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi. Yeah I thought I'd repost sepcific to the grumbling noise to see if it triggered a better response.

Nothing happens really, it seems to come off as normal. the gurgle only lasts like 1 second and only at now and again but seems to always be when closing my door after driving. Its very odd.
 

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founds like a filter or pump fault, if the pump is running the rail has constant filtered fuel, the overfolw pressure from that us usually returned through a pipe back to the tank.
wherever you heard it from is in the same mindset as me.
new filter first, its the cheapest and have a visual inspection done of piped, just incase one has a knock in it or damage.
give it a go, and if it persists, the next would be testing pump pressure, it might be a diagnostic code, but electronics are misleading, i'd have a fuel rail pressure check done. most diesel shops have a gauge will fit on the rail.

process of elimination i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You sound like you know what you're talking about... great!!!.. Do you know, is the fuel pump ALWAYS running and at the same speed? I'm thinking that if it IS, then booting it shouldn't make a difference because it should still be running at the same speed and thus potentially being the only the filter which is restricting the fuel flow.

However if the pump speed varies upon demand from the engine, or booting it as in my case, it could be either couldn't it. Either the pump not sending enough or the filter not letting enough through? Am I thinking right there?

Do you have any idea what this gurgling/grumbling could be from the fuel tank? I was thinking if the fuel cap is faulty somehow and letting pressure out, maybe thats what is causing the pressure loss?
 

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usually pressure controlled, one speed. its more of a 3 way recirculating pump with ,, in, out, and overflow.
note, its in the top of the tank, so the return is usually still within the tank, some model rangerovers have a 2 pipe unit some have 3 pipe unit. figure yours out and draw a diagram, get the fault spot worked out.
it will keep max fuel pressure as set up by the manufacturer at the injector rail via a filter(after the pump nowadays, which is what maked them self bleeding if you run out of fuel) and a air vent valve to assist dumping air in the system.
they usually dump the 3-4 drips of fuel down a chassis leg or a full blown return pipe to tank (not really needed but it stops smells when your spending 50-100k on a motor.

i think you have some knowledge of how the system basics works and you will figure it out. , there is never 2 faults the same to a forum keyboard mechanic, and thats all i am, a general mechanic with low knowledge of range rover brand (as i mainly do HGV articulated trucks and a mass variety of a company motor fleet. ) but, iv fitted into the 100's of fuel pumps in tanks over many brands in my day. they are ALL pityful little pumps. should have stuck with vacuum pump diesel systems. much simpler and used by trucks. enough said.

good luck, let me know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
usually pressure controlled, one speed. its more of a 3 way recirculating pump with ,, in, out, and overflow.
note, its in the top of the tank, so the return is usually still within the tank, some model rangerovers have a 2 pipe unit some have 3 pipe unit. figure yours out and draw a diagram, get the fault spot worked out.
it will keep max fuel pressure as set up by the manufacturer at the injector rail via a filter(after the pump nowadays, which is what maked them self bleeding if you run out of fuel) and a air vent valve to assist dumping air in the system.
they usually dump the 3-4 drips of fuel down a chassis leg or a full blown return pipe to tank (not really needed but it stops smells when your spending 50-100k on a motor.

i think you have some knowledge of how the system basics works and you will figure it out. , there is never 2 faults the same to a forum keyboard mechanic, and thats all i am, a general mechanic with low knowledge of range rover brand (as i mainly do HGV articulated trucks and a mass variety of a company motor fleet. ) but, iv fitted into the 100's of fuel pumps in tanks over many brands in my day. they are ALL pityful little pumps. should have stuck with vacuum pump diesel systems. much simpler and used by trucks. enough said.

good luck, let me know how you get on.
Thank you so much or your help. I like to try and do some research and do the work myself, its the only way to learn right.

So... I'm gonna have stab at changing the fuel filter tomorrow. I've watched some videos and doesn't look too daunting. I was wondering if you know the answer to the following with regards to re-priming the filter.

I'm not sure if they are all the same, but my one has to pipes apparently that goes through the filter. One pipe runs FROM the tank, through the file

(LOOKING AT UNIT FROM TOP)
TANK <----------- (a) FILTER <----------- ENGINE (Unused fuel back to tank)
TANK -----------> FILTER (b) -----------> ENGINE (I think injectors, whatever happens after this point is beyond my knowledge lol)

I have seen some people bleed using some sort of suction device either a bulb and hose or a bleeding kit (I have a brake bleeder I might try and adapt to fit). I have seen two people bleed the pump from point (a), and one person from point (b). What would you suggest? I'm thinking point (b) will only draw fuel through the filter and there will still be a bubble of air in the hose going to the engine from where its been disconnected and reattached, whereas point (a) will draw any air and diesel through the whole system and back out and the only bubble that might remain should go back to the fuel tank along the return line. Does that sound right?

With that in mind, doing point (b), will the fuel flow freely through the engine section and back to the return ok or are there valves and stuff that will be closed and therefore stop be bleeding at that point?
 

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change the filter, part fill it if you can, if not, dont worry, turn on and crank, ot should start with whats in there, and allow to idle, dont rev to it chokes and rattles a bit and maybe stops, and crank again. it should self bleed through rather quick.
if this goes on for more then 304 mins of starting and stalling, you may have another issue.
pressure pressure related, pump or power to the pump.

hopefully it will be easy and fix it with filter only.
 

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@PhilSkill suggested changing the filter a few months ago, so it will be interesting if it is this :)
 

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it will be,, HmmmUK
but these tank pumps are miserable,, 50-/-50 right now.

maybe if it isnt the filter, and it still has an issue, then the pump is nackered.
thats what the forum is about.
not being a snipe saying but,,, if the servicing is done at the right time, all filters, not just oil and filters and fingers crossed...
then one could say if this was changed a few months ago it might have saved the pump,,


if only all us keyboard mechanics had crystal balls

we will just have to wait and see. fingers crossed it is the filter.
 

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It would be useful to know when the fuel filter was last changed.
 
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2013 Evoque Dynamic Lux In Havana
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all. So I changed it the other day, seemed to go well (other than having to take the bottom splash plate off because I dropped a nut down there lol) But went ok. I bought a prime suction bulb and had some thing so primed it in both places mentioned above (just to be sure). Cranked over first time and been running ok since.

Took out for a test drive and was driving pretty hard and couldn't get it to go into limp mode again. However it was quite sporadic so need to give it a couple of weeks to know for certain. Will definitely keep you updated.

Thanks for all your help.

Oh... cost me £26 from ECP and took about an hour. Went with the Mann Filters one in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@londonsteveuk Good to hear! Looks like @PhilSkill was right :) ...backed up by @Hanger17
Yeah, I left it for a bit because I thought it was a bit beyond my DIY capabilities so was waiting to get it booked in somewhere, then it happened again so I spent a couple of hours on youtube and found that the Freelander has the same one and there was many more DIY videos on that than the Evoque so felt comportable giving it a go myself, and it seemed to pay off... for now. :-|
 
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