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Discussion Starter #1
Disclaimer: This is by no means a matter of right and wrong, however merely a description of some observations which I noticed. I have extensive knowledge of beamers, their cameras, modules and how things work. So, using that knowledge and putting my scientist inquisitive nature, this thread is written so that you understand why reverse camera or front bumper cameras can go foggy / stop working.

Background: I have bought MY2015 and gave it an extensive wash. By doing so, the rear camera developed a foggy image and started cutting. I have researched these issues online and found that some owners had new cameras fitted and developed issues after some time. This means that new cameras are not error-proof.

FAQs / Questions which you’d like to ask:
  • Why does the reverse camera become foggy?
  • Is there a design fault and if yes, can you explain it?
  • Can I replace the rear camera myself?
  • Can I do something so that I do not develop this fault again?
  • Is the dynamic lines part of the camera or part of the software on the car?
  • Can I ask the dealer to follow these instructions?
I will try and cover these things and hopefully, they will help you.
  • Why does the reverse camera become foggy?
So essentially, the design allows water to ingress into the camera body. And CMOS (complementary metal-oxide-semiconductor) sensor develops limescale on it.
I have opened my camera and found the CMOS sensor covered in limescale.


Image to show where the camera sits in the housing.


  • Is there a design fault and if yes, can you explain it?
Potentially! The issue is two-folded.
A) The camera body is held with 4 hex screws and there is a rubber seal which sits between the body of the camera and the cover. Over time (and with water ingress), this rubber becomes stiff and start wearing out.



It allows water to enter the body. Additionally, the corners of the rubber seal are not strong and potentially the first point of water ingress. See the image highlighting worn out the rubber seal and corners of the camera (weak point IMHO).


Please note the dust at the bottom of the camera (highlighted by yellow arrows) and lime scaling of the circuit (highlighted by red arrows)



The camera itself sits into housing. There is a gap between the camera lens and the tip of the housing. Potentially, this was designed for the water to go out (if it enters boot/ camera housing). You do not find this gap in other car cameras (BMW / mercs).


And the camera sits at 45 degrees angle which means there is not much space between the bottom part of housing and camera body. This is the area where limescale hits badly.



The camera has taken out of the housing and the bottom surface looks like this:



When you remove the internal circuit, you will notice limescale extending deep.



To experiment, I poured some water with the jet washer from the top of the boot and it did not enter the camera housing. However, when I poured the water facing upward, water gets entered into the camera housing. So, any car wash at the decent car wash will result in some water ingress and over the years, it will lead to issue A (mentioned above).
Well, someone will say that you are trying to be a smart ass. Why didn’t JLR tried to improve this? I cannot answer this. Looking at the new camera, there is white sealant at the top (near the connector housing, however, Point A and B (mentioned above) are left unchanged.
  • Can I replace the rear camera myself?
Yes, if you are semi-decent at DIYs! These youtube videos cover how you can remove the camera.

How to remove Evoque rear tailgate trim?



How to replace the camera?

Additionally, if you have an electronic tailgate, then there is a module which sits on the top of third bolt (from right to left when you are standing at the back of your car and facing forward with open boot). It is held by two T30 Torx screws.

And you can buy a camera directly from JLR or eBay. All you have to do is check the connector and find the one which is similar to yours. (I ordered eBay item no: 292419389249 as it was closest to my location)

  • Can I do something so that I do not develop this fault again?
Yes, address issue A & B covered under 2nd question and you should be able to address this. For those who want to clean the camera CMOS, open the body of the camera and take out the module chip. Reach for CMOS sensor and clean it with spirit dipped earbud. You should clean the internal part of the lens at the same time to give you optimal results. Make sure that spirit is dried before you put the CMOS back to lens. The whole camera is put together with 4 Torx screw


and internal circuit with 3 Torx screws.



Please be careful with the internals of the chip as they can break down due to corrosion/ lime scaling. I tried to clean it and by doing so, one small chip/conductor came off. Also, the internal circuit has two boards and connected by thing wire. This wire is prone to fracture/break due to its age/rigidity as it has lime scaling on it.



As mine broke while cleaning so I ordered a new one.



For those who wants to buy a new camera and make it future proof:

Apply a transparent waterproof sealant around the area where rubber seal sits. Keep it a thin layer, otherwise, you may struggle to fit the body into the socket. I used this:
No Nonsense All-Weather Sealant Clear 310ml

Allow it to dry for a while before fitting into the camera housing.

TIP: Use spirit and your finger to smoothen the edges and use tissue papers to get rid of sealant from your finger(s). Do not use the tissue paper to remove excess sealant off the camera body as it will stick to the camera body.

The result should look like this:





Similarly, apply a sealant to the space between the camera lens and camera housing. Use circular masking tape to cover the lens. I must admit that this is not a neat solution or gives a neat end product.


If you want a neat finish, then measure the size of the aperture and order a rubber sealing washer. Or buy this set (eBay item: 160744529049) and fix the right sized washer between the camera and camera housing. Essentially, you are closing the gap shown below.



  • Is the dynamic lines part of the camera or part of the software on the car?
It’s a part of the software and not camera afaik.
  • Can I ask the dealer to follow these instructions?
I doubt that dealers will go the extra mile to seal these two weaknesses. I have 14 months of used car warranty left and despite that, I replaced the camera myself to make sure that it is future proof. This may help those who have no warranty left.

I have tried to cover most of the things, however, if I missed something, feel free to ask. This should take no more than 1-2 hours (if replacing the camera) and 2.5 hours if cleaning the camera CMOS and lens. Most of the time is used when the sealant is drying. You will require small Torx screwdriver to open the body of the camera.
 

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Excellent detailed write up. That should help members with similar issues 👍
 
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Absolutely brilliant write up. It’s things like this that make forums invaluable.When I went to look at my Evoque at the dealers one of the front cameras didn’t work and they agreed to replace it as part of the deal. When we went to collect it he showed me a receipt for the camera he had purchased direct from LR. It was £360 😰 and the salesman’s boss was not best pleased. Apparently had it been a four pin it was approx £45. Mine being an earlier model was a six pin and £360. So along with the cambelt and water pump they were also advised to do by the MOT garage they have saved me a considerable sum so far.
Now every time I wash the car I’m paranoid that I’ll damage one of the cameras. Even tried putting tape over them before I wash it but it just falls off 😳
 

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Camera or the tape?
 
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🤣 despite being a Land Rover just the tape fell off on this occasion Maffy! 🥴
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Absolutely brilliant write up. It’s things like this that make forums invaluable.When I went to look at my Evoque at the dealers one of the front cameras didn’t work and they agreed to replace it as part of the deal. When we went to collect it he showed me a receipt for the camera he had purchased direct from LR. It was £360 😰 and the salesman’s boss was not best pleased. Apparently had it been a four pin it was approx £45. Mine being an earlier model was a six pin and £360. So along with the cambelt and water pump they were also advised to do by the MOT garage they have saved me a considerable sum so far.
Now every time I wash the car I’m paranoid that I’ll damage one of the cameras. Even tried putting tape over them before I wash it but it just falls off 😳
Mine was 6 pins and if you shop carefully, they can be bought somewhere b/w £40-350.
 

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Sadie, bet the camera was still attached to it!
Camera's have long been an issue on many vehicles. not just LR.
some are sealed better than others-hope you get it sorted
 

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Mine was 6 pins and if you shop carefully, they can be bought somewhere b/w £40-
thats a heck of a difference in price. If you spot one going cheap let me know. Glad the dealer paid for it and not me. I’d be inclined to go without if I had to pay £360 and it was likely to fog up again. Crazy money 😰 I’m surprised the dealer couldn’t find a cheaper one. Unless it was because it was a front one rather than the back one 🤔
 

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Sadie, bet the camera was still attached to it!
Camera's have long been an issue on many vehicles. not just LR.
some are sealed better than others-hope you get it sorted
Dealer paid for it not me 😜 I did see somewhere when we had BMWs that spraying WD 40 on front and reversing sensors made them work again. Apparently chased all the moisture out of the sensor. No good for a camera though 🥴
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For those of you who have 4 pin connector (P/N: LR025912 ), you can use the same method as mentioned above.

A couple of other things mentioned by this guy who resolved it. Refer to post # 3.

 
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Discussion Starter #11
Also, someone can try VW OEM camera (refer to above post) as this was used in JLR / Audi / VW.
 
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I'd advise against trying the Audi or VW 4 pin ones. Kufatec have said it's unlikely to work as the Audi and VW are not interchangeable. The HW and SW revisions are different. Happy for someone to prove otherwise!
 
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