Hi and welcome!
I had this problem last winter! I called JLR assist the problem was solved by spraying a silicone spray( wd40 do a silicone version) on the latch of door! If you look on the door when its open there is a small black cap near the latch , remove and spray into it with extension nozzle provided, and any other bits accessable to locking mechanism!
This worked for me and has been fine since good luck

 

Hi and welcome!
I had this problem last winter! I called JLR assist the problem was solved by spraying a silicone spray( wd40 do a silicone version) on the latch of door! If you look on the door when its open there is a small black cap near the latch , remove and spray into it with extension nozzle provided, and any other bits accessable to locking mechanism!
This worked for me and has been fine since good luck

Donna its you again you are a BABE! I’m the girl who’s Evoques steering rack snapped... now LR want another £300 out of me for faulty doors as my car is having same issues this gentleman mentioned. I’m selling the car this month, cannot WAIT to give it back it has caused me so much stress and repairs

 

Door locks on Freelander 2 and Evoque are fairly common failure. However its a fairly simple change of the lock to resolve and it doesn't cost £300.
Door card off, remove old lock mechanism and replace with the new one.

 

Yeah, but how do you get the door open ?

 

As said this is the most common fault on the Evoque. Can prevent the door unlocking or not locking.

The fault and solution is usually one of two things.....

A duff solinoid requiring a new lock, or if you are DIY, just replace the solinoid itself.

A sticky lock mechanism, checking where the friction is occurring, and spraying with a lubricant.



PS...In all my five years of ownership, a faulty rear door lock solinoid was my only fault, lock replaced under warranty in year two.

 

Hi,
I'm new to this forum
I've just come back from my local garage, pretty annoyed.
For the last 1 week, my drivers door won't unlock from the outside - I have to open the passenger door, jump onto the seat and unlock the driver door manually from the inside.
Unfortunately , locking the car is even more inconvenient: I need to remove the silver part of the key fob, take out the manual key, remove the lock cover on the door of my car, and lock the car manually! I need to do this each time I lock the car - what a headache!
My local garage in North London - which is a respected outfit who I have used for years - has quoted me over £300 for a diagnosis and repair. They also told me this is a very common problem with Range Rovers and they've diagnosed this problem several times this year.
My car is unfortunately outside warranty ; I purchased it new in 2014 and the warranty expired last year.
I am pretty annoyed as this is clearly a manufacturing fault . I have not done anything to the door which may have triggered this. I am really not happy to fork out the considerable sum of over £300 for something which seems to be a Range Rover manufacturing issue, given that its such a widespread problem.
Can anyone suggest any solutions to this?

Door lock around £30 on fleebay, look for evoque door card removal on you tube, took me an hour to change a front one and around the same to replace rear one. had to swap the keyless entry module over to the 2 locks, couple of screw and look how the 2 parts link together with the spring, you will see what I mean when comparing the new lock with the old one.

 

here is the part;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RHD-Fron...+Rover+Evoque&epid=2250772003&hash=item2844a2b8eb:g:EL0AAOSw6GJZ8uAp:rk:18:pf:0

 

Seems a bit fiddly the cable removal bits (and then re-fitting the cables), other than that, think its doable using this video..!

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-RO.../231857805344?epid=1615873316&hash=item35fbcd5820:g:67gAAOSw~OVW0D~a:rk:27:pf:0

Try these guys they do fitting as well it says on the listing, based in East London..

 

Just came back from a trouble free holiday down in Devon in the Evoque and found the rear offside central locking had failed. If the door was unlocked it stayed unlocked and if locked it stayed locked, not good:sad:

So I bought a new lock mechanism from Powerful UK, not a genuine JLR product but it has 2 Years guarantee and cost £35 delivered.

As it was nice and warm today, making the clips easy to remove without breaking, I gave it a go.
It’s only three screws on the door, (cross head and T30) then just pull off the door card, pull it straight no lifting upwards.
Then a few T25 screws holding the inner panel and finally three T30 holding the lock in position.

It took an hour and a half with a cuppa half way through, only fiddly bit was manoeuvring the lock and removing the green clipped cable from the outside door handle.

The video above from Car Guru is excellent and let’s you know exactly what to expect.

I took a few pictures just so I knew where everything was as I took it apart.

 

Max brilliant video thanks

 

Just purchased MY17 and have this same problem. Rear ds door will not unlock with key fob or manually from outside or inside. Someone above suggested a silicon spray on the latch, others have said new solenoid or lock mechanism. Not sure how to do any of these without being able to open the door!? Any other ideas apart from a visit to a garage?

 

You can normally open door from inside? Are the child locks on in rear?...
I’d spray it first if you can open and if that fails it’s the part above

 

Thanks Donna. Child locks are off but still can’t open from inside. Maybe I’m missing something but can’t see how either spraying or the part above are an option if the door cannot be opened?

 

Something might be out of sync ... you could do a master reset... involves disconnecting battery , but wait until xz4 , Philskill, Steve d,CBW pick up this post and sure they will advise

 

The battery in Fob ok?

 

If it's only one door that is faulty I don't think a reset would work Donna. Sounds like the actuator needs replaced. Is the car still in warranty ?

 

The back doors not opening fullstop xz4 from inside either ... remember it worked on something similar last year can’t find post though...

 

?

 

I tried to explain to someone how to do a reset .... think Philskill helped me out and it worked?

 

The one where you disconnect the battery then touch the 2 leads together ?

 

12 months ago
Philskil helped a young lady out the other day by doing battery reset , it worked put the car back to sinc
Here’s his instructions

@Nat are you trying to fix this yourself still?


Are you capable of removing the battery lead? if so you can remove the Black wired one only and touch it to nothing else at all, so take off the Black lead, that's the big round connector clamped with a small bolt and hold it in the air, I would try a few minutes first, replace and test, if that does not work try wrapping it in something insulating like a cloth safely and leaving for half an hour before replacing (this should hard reset the car). Don't touch the Red connector at any point with anything.


Just removing the battery should not upset the car, but clearing all the memory (a Hard reset) will hopefully get it all back in sync again if having a flat battery has caused some i

 

ill try that now thanks for your help

 

Right .... if it’s new to you and has been sat for a while it could be a slight power drain on battery this is what happened to Nats ....this meant the locks went out of sync she did the suggested reset and it worked ... I just read through the thread ....

 

I’d try this before going out and spending money on something that might not be necessary!

 

Thanks guys. Yes still in warranty until May. Will try that route.

 

Hi,
I'm new to this forum
I've just come back from my local garage, pretty annoyed.
For the last 1 week, my drivers door won't unlock from the outside - I have to open the passenger door, jump onto the seat and unlock the driver door manually from the inside.
Unfortunately , locking the car is even more inconvenient: I need to remove the silver part of the key fob, take out the manual key, remove the lock cover on the door of my car, and lock the car manually! I need to do this each time I lock the car - what a headache!
My local garage in North London - which is a respected outfit who I have used for years - has quoted me over £300 for a diagnosis and repair. They also told me this is a very common problem with Range Rovers and they've diagnosed this problem several times this year.
My car is unfortunately outside warranty ; I purchased it new in 2014 and the warranty expired last year.
I am pretty annoyed as this is clearly a manufacturing fault . I have not done anything to the door which may have triggered this. I am really not happy to fork out the considerable sum of over £300 for something which seems to be a Range Rover manufacturing issue, given that its such a widespread problem.
Can anyone suggest any solutions to this?

My car is in for the 2nd time in 3 months it cost me £300 for the drivers door lock replacement and they say the passenger side lock needs replacing at just under £300. On top of that I’ve been told there may be an issue with one of the back door locks. Having had the car for 4.5 years, doing less than 30k miles from new and had numerous call backs for so called other manufacturing issues And other niggles, I’ve decided the time is right to sell. It definitely won’t be another Range Rover/Land Rover or Jaguar.

 

Hi Donna, is this how you work the De-Fib kit???? ❓

 

Hi Sammie
Now that is a good question.
Silly question but I assume you have tried opening from the inside, pulling the Leather handle towards you to take the pressure off the lock mechanism?
It’s unusual if the main mechanical part of the lock fails.