Evoque Owners Club banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
It is a good job it's Monday (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
That is one of the jobs on mine this week O/S/R Plus a few other bit like EGR valve etc.etc. I have a 69plate Evoque R Dynamic as a loaner, very smooth gearbox, very light steering, very quiet drive. But not as nice as my MY15. I prefer driving mine, it feels like a tougher go anywhere motor. (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
:unsure: £161.52 plus vat for the part? That’s more than retail!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I tried changing my rear left door lock today but I learnt:

1. There are different types of lock mechanism depending on your car's spec - My lock has an extra motor on top of it that has another electrical connector going into it compared to the one in the video and the majority of locks on sale on ebay (Perhaps for keyless entry ?). I have found another part which I have ordered. I hope this is now the correct one - LR077832 (superseded by LR091348). There is also a lot less room to manoeuvre with this larger lock.
2. It takes a lot more force than shown in the video to get the door card off. I had to put my foot on the metal of the door and yank the card hard.
3. I'm a complete plonker.
4. You can get to the door mechanism from inside the car if the door is closed and the handles are having no effect, for example, if someone forgets to re-attach the lock cable to the handle when they reassemble the door. 🥵 (You just use the same procedure as in the video, but it's more fiddly !)

I'll report back if I succeed next time.

p.s I found that you can just buy a replacement plastic part that is usually the culprit e.g.
RANGE ROVER EVOQUE (11-16) DOOR LOCK LATCH CATCH REPAIR CLIP FRONT REAR LEFT | eBay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I eventually managed to change my lock. There are a number of revisions for these locks. The one I needed was definitely for the keyless / passive entry which has the extra motor on top. The one originally in the car was part number 8X2A-264613-AD and the one I found to replace it (on ebay) was 8X2A-264613-BD (genuine LR part LR077832). The replacement module had a slightly different shape housing and had less pins in the main electrical socket. I was worried it may not work, but it did.:)

It was almost impossible to get the lock out using the method in the video linked previously. i.e

I did manage, but only after breaking one of the small green tabs off.

However... I really wish I had seen the following video beforehand which shows how it should really be done (for both keyless and non-keyless locks) :

IMHO, the first video should only be used to show you how to get the door card off and you should use the procedure in the second video to actually remove the lock. This will save time, breakages and swearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
I found the first video pretty useless when I changed the lock on the rear passenger door last year and that was without keyless.
I spent hours trying to re-attach the cables but my hands and fingers were too big to get into the tight confines around the lock. Bit drastic, but I ended up cutting a small (3cm sqare) access hole in the door below and to the side of the latching aperture. Still a bit tricky but only took five minutes to attach the most awkward cable.
I did look at the handle mechanism thinking it might help if it could be removed, but could not work out how to do it.
If I had only seen the second video, which is presumably how the dealer does it, things might have been simpler, especially as I had to do the other rear door lock yesterday. I didn't mess about this time and cut an access hole straight away, took longer to take the door card and speakers out than to change the actual lock mechanism this time.
With both the faulty locks a failed motor inside the unit was the cause.
Both replacement locks were sourced for around £ 30 off ebay but they must be manufactured at the same Chinese factory as the OEM ones as they are so complex, unbelievably so, I struggle to see haw a stand alone producer would afford the tooling costs alone and they appeared absolutely identical to the ones that came off.
I have covered the access holes with screwed on metal plates as I will no doubt need them again.
The rate of failure of these locks is disappointing and annoying but as they usual last the length of the warranty it will not concern JLR unduly.
Wonder if E-Pace utilises the same unit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I found the first video pretty useless when I changed the lock on the rear passenger door last year and that was without keyless.
I spent hours trying to re-attach the cables but my hands and fingers were too big to get into the tight confines around the lock. Bit drastic, but I ended up cutting a small (3cm sqare) access hole in the door below and to the side of the latching aperture. Still a bit tricky but only took five minutes to attach the most awkward cable.
I did look at the handle mechanism thinking it might help if it could be removed, but could not work out how to do it.
If I had only seen the second video, which is presumably how the dealer does it, things might have been simpler, especially as I had to do the other rear door lock yesterday. I didn't mess about this time and cut an access hole straight away, took longer to take the door card and speakers out than to change the actual lock mechanism this time.
With both the faulty locks a failed motor inside the unit was the cause.
Both replacement locks were sourced for around £ 30 off ebay but they must be manufactured at the same Chinese factory as the OEM ones as they are so complex, unbelievably so, I struggle to see haw a stand alone producer would afford the tooling costs alone and they appeared absolutely identical to the ones that came off.
I have covered the access holes with screwed on metal plates as I will no doubt need them again.
The rate of failure of these locks is disappointing and annoying but as they usual last the length of the warranty it will not concern JLR unduly.
Wonder if E-Pace utilises the same unit?
I initially bought the (wrong) Chinese version and was also amazed at the complexity of the design that they had managed to copy. I pulled the original lock apart but could not figure out what was broken.
The OEM locks are made in Germany. I love Germany and the Germans but their engineering ability has been over-hyped for decades now (I think it all started with the clever Audi adverts in the 80's).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
I initially bought the (wrong) Chinese version and was also amazed at the complexity of the design that they had managed to copy. I pulled the original lock apart but could not figure out what was broken.
The OEM locks are made in Germany. I love Germany and the Germans but their engineering ability has been over-hyped for decades now (I think it all started with the clever Audi adverts in the 80's).
You're right, just looked at my old one and sure enough, made in Germany. Well, wherever they're made they are rubbish and JLR should be should be ashamed.
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top