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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I have an Evoque Prestige 2012. On the last mot the mechanic showed me photos of the fuel shield cradle which was rusty and dropping off (see attached photos).The general underside of the car was also in a poor state. The car was still under its corrosion warranty and had only been used on the road under normal conditions so I contacted a dealer who confirmed it needed replacement and referred me to Land Rover customer service (nightmare). They said it wasn't covered under warranty and even after I pursued it at a higher level stating it wasn't acceptable for a car of this supposed quality to be rusting away like this under 5 years normal use (not extreme offroad) they stubbornly resisted the case or even considering a goodwill gesture to keep a customer happy (the part is about £80 but the fitting bill was quoted as £550) and even said if I was dissatisfied with the Evoque it was my choice to go elsewhere and buy another make of car next time! Unbelievably rude JLR PR dept!. I noticed on the forums that others have had the same problem and in some cases JLR have put the issue right for some customers & not others. The fuel cradle is not galvanised so is prone to rust from day one and is a design fault!

I would recommend all Evoque owners of cars up to 5 years old to check out their fuel tank shields immediately and bombard JLR with complaints if they are in the same condition as mine. Let me know of any problems you have also.

Thanks for reading, Best regards, Bill
 

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Coincidentally, I noticed that the shield on our car (three years old-17,000 miles) was looking the worse for wear when I was cleaning the calipers last week.

Gave it a coat rust converter and will slap some rust-proofer on when I get some, but my concern is that I cannot treat the inside of the shield which could well hold water.

Would it have been that difficult to use plastic or stainless steel?

Pretty rubbish for a supposed off-roader which, despite the spin, is clearly not prepared for inclement road conditions let alone off-road ones.

Still, as long as it outlasts the warranty period it's no longer a problem for JLR.
 

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It will be interesting to see what Philskill's car looks like.
 

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That is pretty rotten. I’ll have to check my 2012 tomorrow.
 

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Just checked mine. Only light surface corrosion so I’ve been lucky. When I’m underneath it doing the service in the next week or two, I’m going to give it a wire brushing and a coat of underbody stone chip. I reckon it’s the stones chipping away on the paint that leads to rust - it’s quite common on the sumps of many cars without the sump guard/lower engine bay cover.

I haven't looked what’s involved to replace it but £550 to replace a fuel tank strap seem excessive - it’s normally only a couple of bolts. I’ll see what’s involved and report back when I get round to stonechipping mine.



 

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It will be interesting to see what Philskill's car looks like.

A couple of quick picks sorry not focused, looks rusty but not rusted through!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Steve, the straps hold the cradle up and support the fuel tank, the cradle is a bad design all in one piece and I think you have to remove the propshaft and exhaust to get it off, definately not a quick job! cheers Bill
 

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Thanks Bill. Fortunately not needed yet but I have removed my prop and exhaust in the past when I removed my Haldex unit to service it and fit a new filter. A bit of a faff to say the least!
 

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Fortunately mine was marked up on service sheet as "starting to rust" at dealers last April. Got underneath and gave it a good coating of Aquasteel Rust Converter to hold rust at bay. As OP,s have said, can't get to the inside though. May have a go with a waxoil kit to spray inside tray next year!!. Perhaps LR intended the protection plate to act as a sacrificial anode ?
 

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Yes, mine has surface rust which I spotted when the car was just one year old - and reported it to the local dealer.

I’ve sprayed it with a warm mix of WD 40 and Waxoyl (which thins it out, making it suitable for spraying). Fortunately I have a pit and can easily get under the car.

The surface rust hasn’t progressed any further in the following 2 years, although I do give it a good coating outside and where possible, inside.

I do agree that it is not good enough for any car, let alone an expensive one.

Jaguar are also having corrosion problems with the cross member under the F type. Although they don’t want to admit it (yet!!).

CB
 

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ACF50 is good for treating parts that rust. It comes in spray & aerosol form.
 

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Yes i'll be spraying mine with ACF50 this weekend!
 

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2013 L538 RR Evoque Pure Tech td4
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I need to have a look at mine!
At the last service (the fifth one) JLR did offer me a underbody anti corrosion treatment for £100 but they would/could not tell me what they were going to do or what they were going to apply for £100 of my hard earned, so I declined!
I can’t imagine they would have done much for £100 based on their hourly rates and the cost of underseal products, there would have been very little preparation if any at all.
I don’t know why the were so elusive about what they were offering.
I did ask “why does my five year old Land Rover require this?” But got no response.
 

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I need to have a look at mine!
At the last service (the fifth one) JLR did offer me a underbody anti corrosion treatment for £100 but they would/could not tell me what they were going to do or what they were going to apply for £100 of my hard earned, so I declined!
I can’t imagine they would have done much for £100 based on their hourly rates and the cost of underseal products, there would have been very little preparation if any at all.
I don’t know why the were so elusive about what they were offering.
I did ask “why does my five year old Land Rover require this?” But got no response.
Maybe they've identified the shield as a problem but don't want to publicise it so offering a discrete repair.

I'm under mine next week with a can of rust treatment.
 

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Did mine today. Cheated a bit though and run it round my mates to get it up on his hoist. I removed the two plastic skid plates from either side so that I could get to the front of the tank protector, gave it a light wire brushing and then several coats of underseal that included waxoil. Looking at it, there is only 4 bolts holding it up but as the tank saddles the prop and exhaust, they would have to be removed to get it off.

All done and ready for winter. :grin:



 

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Looks good Steve, Did mine today while changing out my summer wheels, don't have access to a hoist. So got it up on axle stands and gave it a good covering of ACF50, along with my sidestep mounts and a few other various bolts rusting, what I noticed was the worst bit was at the back where mud and dirt was trapped between the tank and the guard, got the nozzle of the can between and got some covering onto the inside, as it looks like it rusts from the tank side as much as the outside.

Not a great design or the wrong material, the tiny gap will always fill up with muck, and worse salt in the winter! At least it is replaceable unlike my Mazda chassis that quietly rotted away behind the arch liners! ?
 

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And thanks to Billtus for pointing it out to us!
 

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At long last I got round to having a good look at mine. It was a nice day in Hertfordshire and I had a bit of time.
Luckily it was nothing like Billtus, just a light bit of surface rust but gave it a good paint anyway with some Hammerite Rust Eater.
It is such a shame that JLR couldn’t spend more time on decent rust protection. It’s a Land Rover that should last for many, many years but the rust I’d gonna kill it.
 

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Years ago most cars rusted underneath some more than others I remember as a teenager using old engine oil as a protector many years before waxoil was produced the advantage of using waxoil is it comes with a metre pipe with a 360 degree applicator ideal for rust proofing the insides of places you cant get to this problem and the steering rack bolt /screw problem has made me think towards getting mine done if I decide to keep it long term maybe ..Do it myself maybe combine this with a oil & filter change when needed later after manufacturers warranty finishes if I can get a loan of a Pit Start or similar 4 post lift thanks for pointing this out and the pictures
 
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