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Discussion Starter #23
Problem seems to be sorted.
It looks like it started when dealer put a new battery for a test drive (the existing one allowed only for opening door) and, obviously, did not register it to the car ECU.
As an effect there was a strange behavior of alternator leading to flat discharge that battery over the period I was struggling with warning on dashboard.
I had to buy a new battery. I was happy only for three days and the symptoms returned.
So one rainy day I opened the bonnet and started measuring volts.
Battery: 11.5V
Charging on idle: 14.5V
So far, so good. Soon as I shut the bonnet the warning returned (engine was on!).
I opened the bonnet again and measured volts again: 14.5 wtf?
In a desperation I put the multimeter on a windscreen to observe it for a longer time from behind the wheel.
And now the best part of the story:
When I closed the bonnet the charging gone - 11.5V. Some swears later I decided to sit in a car to cool down.
At the very moment of opening door the charging returned. I had 14.5V on a meter again! I tried that trick with boot lid and it worked the same wayo_O
How about driving it?
No charging at all. Continuous, slow Volt drop. Until deceleration. Believe me or not, but it started charging when I took foot away from pedal letting it roll down from a hill. 14.5-16V depending on revs.
Having in mind that driving car with opened door or boot is not quite legal I tried the last trick with resetting ECU by shorting cables going normally to the battery (for about 3 minutes for total discharge any internal capacities). That restored the charging on idle also sorted the problem with the door or bonnet to be open but did not solve the problem with warning.

Because my local garage became operational after that crazy covid time I took the car there for diagnostics.
All they done was flushing ECU errors and registered battery. 15 minutes of clean job. Story of abnormal charging behavior didn't impress the technician as he faced it before. He said he's actually got more interesting case of LR on a shopfloor with wipers working only when indicator lever is on 'left' position.

Day with no warning: 3rd.
Fingers crossed :)
 

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I don’t use my Evoque from one week to the next and constantly get the low battery message.

I had to book my Evoque in overnight for the dealer to charge the battery and reset the system because if you charge the battery depending on how you charge it the system cant Keep track of the battery’s true charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
...which is an user nightmare. How about people living in far-away-from-dealer locations? It is simply sick to force people to 'authorise' battery charges or replacement. As per battery true charge or capacity there is a simple solution: dummy load. system can measure the 'delta' t volt drop for lets say 10 seconds starting when unlocking the car to estimate the battery condition. This is a common way to see the BTU's battery status in electrical substations and it originates from 70s last century. And replacing broken battery doesn't require any 'registering' nor 'authorising'? 50 years later car owners have to pay an extortion for what was a normal thing back days. What a lovely business model :standing ovation: 💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷💷🤑
 

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MY2016 Evoque Autobiography 2.0L DIESEL 5 DOOR / L538
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As mentioned on a parallel thread, It appears that if you are patient and wait a few months, the BMS should do an auto reset itself. (At least that is how I read it):

From the DS forum:

Periodically the BMS module will instigate a self-calibration
routine. To self-calibrate, the BMS first charges
the battery to its full condition.
Once the battery is fully charged, the BMS will discharge
the battery to approximately 75% of its full state
of charge, but never lower than 12.2 V. The time taken to
complete this part of the routine is dependent on the
electrical load on the vehicle and the length of time the
vehicle is used.
When the second part of the routine has been successfully
completed, the BMS will return the battery to its
optimum level of charge. The optimum level of charge
will be between 12.6 V and 15 V, depending on battery
condition, temperature and electrical loading. This process
is run approximately twice a year.
 

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Problem seems to be sorted.
It looks like it started when dealer put a new battery for a test drive (the existing one allowed only for opening door) and, obviously, did not register it to the car ECU.
As an effect there was a strange behavior of alternator leading to flat discharge that battery over the period I was struggling with warning on dashboard.
I had to buy a new battery. I was happy only for three days and the symptoms returned.
So one rainy day I opened the bonnet and started measuring volts.
Battery: 11.5V
Charging on idle: 14.5V
So far, so good. Soon as I shut the bonnet the warning returned (engine was on!).
I opened the bonnet again and measured volts again: 14.5 wtf?
In a desperation I put the multimeter on a windscreen to observe it for a longer time from behind the wheel.
And now the best part of the story:
When I closed the bonnet the charging gone - 11.5V. Some swears later I decided to sit in a car to cool down.
At the very moment of opening door the charging returned. I had 14.5V on a meter again! I tried that trick with boot lid and it worked the same wayo_O
How about driving it?
No charging at all. Continuous, slow Volt drop. Until deceleration. Believe me or not, but it started charging when I took foot away from pedal letting it roll down from a hill. 14.5-16V depending on revs.
Having in mind that driving car with opened door or boot is not quite legal I tried the last trick with resetting ECU by shorting cables going normally to the battery (for about 3 minutes for total discharge any internal capacities). That restored the charging on idle also sorted the problem with the door or bonnet to be open but did not solve the problem with warning.

Because my local garage became operational after that crazy covid time I took the car there for diagnostics.
All they done was flushing ECU errors and registered battery. 15 minutes of clean job. Story of abnormal charging behavior didn't impress the technician as he faced it before. He said he's actually got more interesting case of LR on a shopfloor with wipers working only when indicator lever is on 'left' position.

Day with no warning: 3rd.
Fingers crossed :)
Hi Krisskross,

I've a similar problem with my 2011 Evoque in that the alternator has stopped charging the battery. Same effect as yours in that the battery slowly is discharging when engine is running even though on mine there are no warnings such as the battery red warning light or the MIL triangle/fault code.
I'm currently going down the route of replacing the alternator but before that am considering the ECU reset process - only I'm a bit concerned about this process causing other issues such as forgetting the smart key identity or other Evoque gremlins.

Question - did you or anyone else here have any bad experiences with the reset ECU process?

PS - I read up the Evoque workshop manual and the coasting downhill voltage rise of the alternator is part of the design - the manual calls it smart regenerative charging;

Smart Regenerative Charging
A smart regenerative charging system increases the alternator output when the vehicle brakes or decelerates. This
converts the kinetic energy of the vehicle into electric energy without having to use additional fuel.
The smart regenerative feature is allowed to operate within certain environmental constraints to ensure the feature
delivers the greatest benefit possible whilst maintaining system integrity.
The ‘free’ electric energy is captured by charging the battery above the target level. This energy can be used by the
electrical systems at a later stage. This could be when the engine is switched off during a stop-phase, but can also be when the generator is operating in a less efficient mode.
The battery state of charge can be corrected both up and down to achieve the most appropriate level to maximize the
benefit of the smart regenerative charging feature. If the ECM (engine control module) decides there is recoverable energyavailable, then the alternator charge setpoint will be overridden and the extra system voltage will allow the battery toconsume a proportion of the recoverable energy. If the battery is at a high state of charge, then some of the additionalenergy can be used to contribute by means of load reduction when there is a significant torque demand on the engine. Bymonitoring which loads are active and altering both the ultimate voltage levels and the rate at which they are changed anyvisible effects of the feature operating are minimized
 

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Modern Cars are a big issue, Mrs M's Golf R had stood still for a few weeks, decided it needed a run--click, click click-Flat battery, jumped started and blew the Infotainment system and I mean fried-at the dealer now being sorted and replaced NOT a cheap day out that's for sure-looking at £1,400 or so.
Expensive flat battery!!!!!!!
 

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MY14 Jaguar F Type 3.0S Convertible
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Modern Cars are a big issue, Mrs M's Golf R had stood still for a few weeks, decided it needed a run--click, click click-Flat battery, jumped started and blew the Infotainment system and I mean fried-at the dealer now being sorted and replaced NOT a cheap day out that's for sure-looking at £1,400 or so.
Expensive flat battery!!!!!!!
😲. Lesson learned there then Maffy.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Question - did you or anyone else here have any bad experiences with the reset ECU process?
No I did not. I just performed 'manual hard reset' and it only affected windows and dashboard settings. Easy to restore.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
@Maffy: don't German cars have a dedicated terminal for a jump start? (Not the battery terminal itself) I remember I had one in Merc.
 

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Couldn't even find my Battery, so used the daughter in laws Renault which had an obvious one.
I NOW do know about the jump points-bud didn't on Monday!!! expensive lesson indeed.
been many many years since I had to jump a car, bit like veteran jumping Mrs V-been many, many years!!!!

Gotta keep smiling-no one died I guess.
 

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£3,471-00 + VAT for new head unit---I don't think so!!!!!!
 
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