Continued from above:

I measured the oil that had drained, it was 3.1l, replaced the drain and level plugs with their old seals, and inserted a tube into the fill hole and added 3.1l of fresh oil through a fill pipe, using the cheap syringe.

I replaced the fill plug, air. box and MAF sensor plug then started the car and let it idle for a few minutes. kept my foot on the brake and cycled through the gear positions, P R N D S a few times pausing a few seconds in each to get the new oil through the valves.

I then repeated the procedure again with another 3.1l of oil, before on the third time fitting the new seals (except the level plug), torquing the drain plug to 47nm and the level plug to 7nm, then adding 3.5 litres of oil and tightening the fill plug. the correct torque is 39nm but as I was using the crows foot just did it tight but not forced.

I then connected the diagnostic device and ran the car until the gearbox temp was between 50 and 60 degrees C. a short run is easier than waiting on idle, but a long run takes it to 70 degrees so try to measure it, I have seen people use those cheap infrared thermometers on the gearbox casing and it seemed to work.

When at temperature was correct I removed the level plug with the engine running, (and car level) and let the excess oil run out until it started to drip, fitted the new level plug seal and tightened to 7nm.

As I had the diagnostic device I went to special functions and reset the transmission control module oil counter, this is what the gearbox uses to adjust its settings to account for degrading oil and should be reset when the oil is changed, I know many do not do this step without issue.

Finally replacing the under tray and a thorough road test, all excellent. Very minimal noticeable difference, just a bit smoother and more responsive like a newer car, but I had no issues before doing this.

The first oil dump was black, the third one much better but still grey, not the red I want. It will be getting three further changes at annual service in summer but I thought perhaps let this one circulate everywhere first.

As for AW1 transmission fluid I bought 20l from Smith and Alan for just over £100, enough for six changes.

Hope this is helpful, please add any suggestions or improvements below, thanks.

 

Very helpful and descriptive steps @Binty

Thanks for sharing 👍

I don't have the tools or know-how to do this myself and would use a garage.

I can't imagine the garage going through all of those steps, especially changing the oil several times.

Which is obviously concerning for those like me.

Thanks again, great to see how it's done.

 

I know what you mean. My last Volvo I I had done at a garage and they just dropped the oil
once and refilled. It was still going fine when I sold it at 160k.
the big problem I find is small independents won’t touch auto boxes they just shy away from them for fear of. causing problems and say best left alone, which men’s when it finally breaks we will sell you a new gearbox.

 

Quite a few LR indi garages will carry out a gearbox mega-flush these days. They have dedicated machines to do this and its like dialysis whereby it pumps fresh ATF through the box and TC. That way you get fresh ATF rather than just diluted oil.
I had my L320 6 speed done at 80k as preventative maintenance.

 

There is also a method used on Volvos. Called the gibbons method. Disconnecting the cooler pipe and feeding fresh oil through that way. Sounds like a diy version of maga flush. I just do not fancy disturbing eleven year old pipe seals if I can avoid it 😂😂

 

thanks again binty i would be doing all the jobs you have ilustrated if i had a garage and i wasnt a 67 yr old codger with arthritus pal still good reading pal thanks 😄 🤣

 

Yes 9 speed is ZF. Six speed is Asin.
Correct temperature when setting the level on either is essential I understand, though I have not done nine speed but a friend has.