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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Part 1:

I fitted a dashcam over the weekend....never had one before and got bored one day over lockdown and bought one on a whim 😄

So then I set about educating myself on how to install them......not so much the camera as I did that without very much research (I did say it was a whim) simply going for the smallest known brand I could find

There are of course plenty of threads on various forums including this about how to install them but none that had everything I needed in one place especially Evoque specific ....so I thought I would do my own to hopefully help others......

So just to start off with the cam itself even though I will concentrate on the install considerations....

I got a Garmin Dash Cam Mini from John Lewis (same price at a lot of places but John Lewis offer a 2 year warranty) for c£80 (may have been £89) delivered






This comes with 2 connection leads to power it, one long, one short......they are mini USB (camera end) to USB (power end) with a cigarette lighter socket to USB adaptor ie the unit is supplied to simply plug into a cigarette lighters or USB socket in the car to power it.




So this leads to the first consideration ie how do you want the camera to work?
- If you simply want the camera to work when you are driving then you can use the supplied leads to power the device from a source that is live only when the car is running. Very simple. The only thing that you have to make sure of is that the usb/cigar lighter socket is only live when the car is on (is ignition triggered) and not permanently live. This varies across manufacturers and models. If its permanently live it means the camera will never turn off (unless you unplug it) and there is a real risk you will end up with a flat car battery. The easiest way to test this is to plug something in that you can tell if its being powered or not eg your phone and a phone charger lead......I did this just to check and yep the cigar lighter next to the drinks holders is ignition triggered and not permanently live. nb the usb connections in the armrest will also work just as well and can be a neater solution as the cables can be hidden better. This type of connection has just a simple +ve live and -ve earth feed.

- However if your camera has a "parking" mode where it can record movement or impact or both whilst parked then you will need a permanent supply. This mode if supported by your camera needs to know when its working with the car running or not (ie parked). To achieve this it has an extra connection cable so has +ve permanent load, +ve ignitioj trigger wire (nb this does not actually power the device but simply lets the device know the car is running and is not parked) and a -ve earth. The supplied cables are not able to facilaite this type of install via USB as a USB / cigar lighter is either permanent live or igntition live and cannot be both. You therefore have to buy additional wiring to "hard wire" to the cars fuseboard as no accessory you can connect to has the required double live feed trigger.

Now we all know the Evoque is prone to battery problems :rolleyes: so I was cautious about usinjg parking mode.....its more complex to install and surely risks flattening the battery........however research tells you that they have thought of that :unsure:.......there are two options:

- buy a fancy (and very expensive c£200+) rechargeable battery pack.....the idea is that this recharges whilst the car is running and when its not running it provides a power source ...limited obviously until that battery runs out

- buy a battery "monitor" which looks at the voltage given out by the cars battery and when it goes below a certain threshold it turns off the power to the camera to ensure the battery does not go flat. These vary in price from c£15 to £50 but all basically do the same job.

I decided I did not want to fork out £200+ but that I would given parking mode a go and hence went for a battery monitor. The official garmin one was around £30 but Halfords (for some unknown reason) where selling them for £20, given an untested 3rd party chinese one is around £15 I plumped for the Garmin one...




This comes with the 3 required wires (+ve permanent, +ve ignition and -ve earth). It is worth noting that the +ve permanent includes an inline 2amp fuse.........



This is really important as when you hard wire this you are effectively creating a new circuit in the car and all circuits should be fused, especially a permanent live. nb the ignition live does not have an inline fuse as in effect it will not supply a live feed to power the dashcam at any time, it simply acts as a "trigger" that the ignition is on....
(note: if you use a piggyback fuse as shown later this becomes less of an issue as you are in effect introducing a fuse there to the circuit ...if installed correctly, more on that later)

at this point I'll note a "hidden" feature which is not included in the instructions with this unit but its important to make sure your solution has ...the ability to vary the cutoff point for battery saving.....some solution this is obvious and part of the selling features but for some reason it is not obvious / documented with the Garmin kit.....however if you open up the small box that is part of the kit (x4 small philips screws) there are a set of jumpers .....some are for 24v (HGV) use and some 12v (car) use......the default was set at 11.7 volts.....I was concerned that at that level the Evoque would have a hissy fit with low battery warning levels......I changed this to the 12.3 volt option but there is also a 12v setting.......I'll be able to "play around" with this if needed eg if parking never comes on / parking is one too much and depletes the battery

EDIT: since fitting the parking mode was not activating with the jumper set at 12.3v even after a full battery charge and it giving a constant reading of c12.7v (via my Bluetooth battery monitor)......so I moved the jumper to the 12v position and the parking mode then started to work........I’ll monitor it over the next few weeks to make sure that this does not trigger any early “low battery” warnings from the car




The last thing you need is something to record the video on. This camera (and I think most) use the very small micro SD cards. The important thing to remember about SD card memory is that it has a finite life ie there are only so many times it can be written to before it fails. Two factors affect that...the quality and the size of the card ie better quality can be written to more times before they fail and the bigger the capacity the less times each part of the card needs to be written to for the same data to be stored......therefore it follows that a large good quality card is required. Most recommend a camera specific card (ie designed to be written to a lot) and 64GB with the Samsung Pro Endurance being the benchmark.....there are some great online retailers which are much cheaper than the high street outlets, you just have to make sure they are genuine and not cheap chinese copies ie use a reputable UK supplier for these.......in practrice I found that the 128GB cards where only maringally more expensive than the 64GB so bought one of those:




Finally my prep work / research covered how to actually do the "hard wire" of the battery monitor kit to the car. The "old" way of doing this is to simply wrap the exposed new wire around a suitable fuse "leg" and push the fuse back in the fuse box..........(takes me back 20 years)......the "new" way is to use a "piggyback" fuse......this is in effect a fuse holder which both retains the original fused circuit and creates an brand new fused circuit. The beauty of this is not only that its a more robust connection but each circuit can have a different fuse rating ie it does not matter what the "doner" circuit fuse rating is as it will not be touched by the new circuit. However there is still a risk with this as a piggyback fuse has a "right way" and a "wrong way" to connect it but can be connected either way ...hence a risk.......I'll go into this in more detail later to try to explain ......you will need to be comfortable with a multimeter to check properly, or with taking a chance (its 50:50) or rely on this thread (never recommended, I'm an amateur)......having said that if you do get it wrong but have an inline fuse to the battery monitor on the permanent live feed then you have a safety net.....I in effect ended up with two fuses both rated at 2amps on the permanent live feed ie one on the piggyback fuse and one on the battery monitor wiring.....

So piggyback fuse it is then.......but there are different sizes :rolleyes:......which one does the evoque have :unsure:....now problem people have done this before what did they use .........well its not clear ...some threads are adament its a "micro" fuse, some its a "mini" fuse......I found a thread (somewhere) that clearly showed a "mini" fuse next to a fuse that had been removed so I settled on that (I couldn't be bothered doing the sensible thing and checking for myself :oops:) .........now I have loads of car fuses....but no mini ....so I ordered a set which included 2amp (the rating of the dashcam) and piggyback connectors....as a bonus it also included the male connectors needed to connect to the wire ends of the monitoring kit (they think of everything).......




phew.........the whim took up a fair bit of research and more cost :rolleyes:.......so next onto the install...part 2
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
PART 2:

Various threads say you should start at the connection end and work up to the dashcam end......I don't understand the logic of this as you just end up with loads of spare wire where you donlt want it ie potentially rattling around above you head......so I started at the dashcam end and worked to the fuse box (tip the fuse box is located in/under the passenger glovebox)......I did make sure I left a little slack of wire hidden at the top.......

So the first consideration is where to fit the camera......on my evoque there is only really one location which is directly at the bottom of the all the plastic gubbins housing various cameras and sensor built into the car....I could not install to the side of these behind the rear view mirror as the plastic effectively created blind spots. It was easy to test the best location by using the original USB power cables and temp connecting to the cigar lighter socket and turning the camera on.......the one I have has no built in screen but does provide a live feed to you phone so I just did that......for me there was only the one location. The only slight concern here is that the bottom of the plastic which is nearest to the camera has slots cut into it like a grill.....I'm not sure if these are for some form of sensor .....chekcing professional installs of larger cameras on the internet they are also located in this location...that and given there was nowhere else to install it I put it there....I'll report back if this does cause any problems with any inbuild car systems (my car is an autobiography with every sensor apart from auto cruise).......so just clean the window in that location, peel back to sticky off the small mounting pad and stick in place .....check picture on phone and position the camera facing accurately and mounting done, dead easy.....

Probably more informative to put the final pics of it installed here so you can see the location at this point......from the drivers seat:




from the passenger seat:




nb I could not get any useable pictures from outside due to reflections off the windscreen but siffice to say that I'm more than happy with the install......the light is easy to see without being distracting and the manual save recording button is very easy to reach......

so now onto getting the wiring down to the fuse box / passenger footwell.......this was the easiest part of the install....simply push the wire into the plastic trim around the rear view mirror.....I pushed some extra slack in there........and then gently peel down the front edge of the headlining to push the wire into...work along to the passenger A pillar.......at this point you need to decide if you want to hide the wire behind the A pillar trim or in the door edge.....I opted for the door edge as there is an airbag in the A Pillar, you can remove the trim easily enough (aparently) to ensure you cable tie the wiring to the existing wiring harness without any risk of fouling the airbag but the less trim removed the better for me ........so I simply ran the wiring along to top edge of the A pillar trim rather than down it, across to the door seal....








nb once you get the door seal pulled out with the trim tool its easier to run your finger down with the wire which very securly pushes behind....




before the bottom of the door there is a very convenient split in the inner plastic trim allowing the cable to then be diverted behind the glove box where the fuse panel is located.....use the trim tool to push the wire behind that, you can then use your finers behind this trim to guide the wire the rest of the way to the fuse board...(nb if you have already remnoved the fuse covers which I will go over next ;-))








So now to the hardest bit of the job.......not conencting the wires to the fuse board thats just a little fiddly but actually figuring out how to get at the right fuses.......I'll try and break it down into stages:

there are 3 main fuse boards in the car...one in the engine bay, one behind the passenger glove box and one in the boot. The passenger glove box is perfect. However to access this you need to remove 2 covers.....

the first (upper) is located inside the glove box.....so open it and empty all the essentials you have in there....enjoy the experience of finding stuff you oing since forgot as in there .......nb it helps if you get a mat on the floor outside the car to kneal on and have moved the passenger seat all the way backwards......on your knees outside the passenger door you can now see the plastic access panel at the back of the glove box, this just simply pulled off from the "top".....on the back of this is the fuse layout....you will need this diagram and also the fuse board listing within the owners manual to refer to......(nb I am putting pics up for my car but can;t be assured fuses are the same in other cars especially across model years so always check your own).




Withn this "top" panel removed you can see into the top part of the fuse board....nb there is a white cloth "fire" barrier with an access hole you need to push out the way...make sure you remember to drop this back when you finish ;-)

you can now see the red fuse" remover which makes removing the fuses a lot easier (they re hard to push in / out with your fingers)....remove this as you will be using it....




nb I've also marked the Ignition live fuse I used accessed from this top access on the pic above

the fuse remover looks like this......you pinch the fuse end to grip it and press the far end from the fuse to release it...




You then need to remove the lower panel cover which is under the glovebox / at the back of the passenger footwell......this is a lot harder to remove as the x3 retaining plugs are blind at the top and its not clear at first how they work....basically they are very tight but almost impossible to break.....once you have them off its obvious why......so you just have to use one hand to feel for them and push up the surrounding plastic and then use the other with a thin trim tool to get between the plug cover and time and level it away......they are very tight ....if you can lever enough to get you fingers behind then its easier.......they do just pop out.....when you get them out you realise they are a split design ....so they contract as you lever them to allow them to be removed....








Removing these x3 trim clips was actually the hardest part of the whole job but once you've done it once they are a doddle.....nb they are very very easy to refit at the end ;-)

So you now have acces to the lower part of the fuse panel....again I have marked the permanent live fuse I used...



next PART 3....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
PART 3....

So now you have access to the fuses....which to use........you need a permanent live and an ignition live....it does not matter the fuse rating as you will be creating a new circuit with its own fuse ....ideally though belt and braces you want to use fuse locations which have no crucial equipment on them at all. Thats easy for the ignition fuse as you can just use the cigar lighter fuse but for the permanent its a little harder......as my car has most options fitted there where no really redundant circuits.....in the end I found a recommendation that the diagnistic port if a permanent live and of course 99.9% of the time its not in use...so I used that.....

RTTM (yes we should sometimes) the relevent pages confirmed the fuses to use:






so thats that right, dead easy....then you look at the fuse board......WTF it looks nothing like the diagram on the back of the top cover (pic above).......well it is but it just takes a bit of getting your head around and working out.....ironically each fuse is numbered but you have zero chance of even seeing the numbers let alone reading them unless you are superman.........just take you time and work them out......it helps by using the colours and surrounding fuses / empty/void spaces.......

So now you know where your going to fit the piggybnack fuses (nb the negative does not go to a fuse but simply connect to any screw that is attached to the vehicle chassis to earth it...there is a very easy / convenient one shown later so dont worry about that until last).......time to get the piggyback ready ie connect the permanent live and ignition live wires to the piggyback (in this case via bullet connectors)....




crimped up ....




connected...




next its just a matter of removing the original fuses from the fuse board that you identified above, pushing them into the piggyback and fitting a new appropraite fuse to the second fuse spot (2amp in this case)......




take note of which slot each goes in...the new one is the slot which connects to the wire which exits the piggyback....

Now comes the important bit!.......lots of threads just tell you to then insert the piggyback into the original fuse location....the problem with that is you have a 50:50 chance of doing it the wrong way around ........I try to explain by pictures:






as you can see its important that you identify which "leg" of the piggyback will receive the load and which side will return it....if you get this wrong you in effect create a unfused circuit....it does not affect the original circuit but you new circuit can bypass you have just fitted in the piggyback........now if you have an inline fuse in the permanent live wiring (as the garmin kit does) then this is a mute point as that provides the fuse......but I wanted to do it correctly and in effect I end up with two 2amp fuses in the circuit.....
To test which way you need a multimeter.......you are simply testing which of the two fuse connectors in the fuse board is the load side ie one will read 0v and one will rad 12v (on the permanent live fuse all the time, on the ignition fuse the ignition will need to be on to create the load).......on my car it was the upper connection is the load side.....

just a random pic of my multimeter as its impossible to take a reading and picture at the same time ;-)




Here are my piggyback connectors in place correctly orientated for load to pass through the new circuit fuse....

Lower panel permanent live fuse




Upper panel ignition live fuse




The earth is then simply connected behind the screw on the top right of the lower access panel housing nb you will need to angle the wire directly back from this at 90degrees to refit the access panel cover...




At this point you can now fully test the camera is working and ignition triggers change of state from park mode to drive mode etc.........

Once you are happy its working fine you can tidy up the wiring....I just pushed mine behind the lower right lower panel access including the battery monitor box so its realtively easy to get at if I want to change the battery cutoff voltage jumpers.......then refit the upper and lower panel covers, decide how much of the valued items in you glove box you actually want to put back in your nice car and the jobs a "good un"

Of course with covid lockdown the evoque is not actually being used so I've not had chance to test it in anger yet.......but the phone app and wireless connection to the device when required to view, edit , downlaod footage seems fast and seemless..........
 

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Excellent write up so thanks for taking the time. I installed a dashcam on mine in exactly the same way but the fuse is different on the later models (26)
 
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