Wow that looks and sounds quite technical but you seem to have got the job sussed out! Well done.... Hope your wife doesn't get you into too much trouble for putting oil in her measuring jugs?

 

Lol. Nope, I bought a couple of cheap sets off Amazon. :angel:

 

Excellent write up and advice, Steve.

 

Great write up Steve, well played.

 

Well, as promised, I've tried a new method of dump and fill on my auto transmission fluid. Nothing special about a dump and fill where the fluid is changed in stages, mainly because you cannot get all the fluid out in one go. Some people just do one dump at each service but I thought I’d have a go at getting the majority of it out in one go. Draining is straightforward and so should the filling be - there’s a T55 filler plug on the top of the gearbox. That’s fine on a vehicle with a gear shift lever such as the Freelander 2 but the Evoque has a electronic gearchange unit mounted on a bracket and it’s this that must be removed to get at the filler plug. It’s connected to the box by a splined shaft and my fear was that it would go back wrong and give me grief. I did 6 dumps so the gearchange unit would have needed removing 6 times. That’s 6 chances of putting it back wrong!

Anyway, my method was devised to avoid touching the gearchange unit. I achieved this simply by buying a cheap 12v oil transfer pump from eBay for around £12. One of these:


I started by raising the vehicle slightly, removing the bottom cover and after removing the oil level checking screw, removed the 17mm combined drain/level plug. I had a 17 mm Allen bit but you could get by with using a 17mm nut with half in the plug and half in a socket.

The oil auto transmission level on the Evoque is checked by removing the T40 drain screw with the engine running and at a temperature of 50°-60° C. A drive round the block should get it near to this temperature range. The drain plug incorporates a tube that is used to set the level - remove screw with engine running and allow any excess oil to drain. If no oil comes out, oil should be added through the filler plug. This is the combined plug.


This is a picture of the old oil, next to a jug of the fresh oil:


After removing the plug, I drained approximately 3.7 litres out. I then refitted the plug. I replaced this fluid with fresh oil using a fluid transfer pump, pumping the fluid back up the level pipe. Like this:


When filling, I filled in two stages. 2 litres in first, then approx another 1.7 litres with the engine running. I repeated this 6 times as I had 20 litres of JWS 3324 fluid (£85 from Smith and Allan on eBay). Here’s a shot of each batch of oil removed and you can see the change in colour:


It’s even more noticeable on a sheet of white paper. Left to right with the last sample being fresh oil:


I didn't bother refitting the checking screw between dumps and I just selected gears P-R-N-D-S and back a few times after each fill. Finally I added approx 4 litres on the final fill and left the engine running for 15 mins to allow the oil to reach temperature and settle to the correct level before refitting the checking screw. I didn’t use a new washer or 'O' ring as they were fine. It was a slightly messy task, made worse by me dislodging the fill pipe once when filling which resulted in a nice oil puddle on my floor!

On the final fill, don’t switch the engine off with the filler screw removed as the fluid level rises when the engine is not running and it will auto drain through the fill level tube.

And that’s it. I’d like to say it drove a lot quieter and smoother but, just like when I serviced my Haldex, there was no difference afterwards as it was fine before I did this and hopefully, it will stay that way. That's the whole point of preventative maintenance!

Hi Steve,

I have a 2014 SD4 Evoque with the 9 speed transmission, is it the same with yours?

Also I have just learnt that there are 2 types or colours of transmission fluid, the normal red/pinkish one and the clear/white one also called CVT. Which colour fluid did you use?

Thanks.
Leroy

 

Hi Leroy
No, mine is the six speed box and there was only one type of fluid for mine which was red. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
Steve

 

Thanks for your response Steve 👍,
Just read your post on Haldex servicing, which type of oil did you use to service your Haldex unit. Was it the normal axle oil 80W-90 I recently use to replace my front diff oil?

Regards,
Leroy

 

I noticed that after my 2014 Evoque SD4 is parked for over 2 to 3 days it starts making a banging noise which seems to becoming from the back, hesitates or jerking on take off for the first 10 to 15 minutes when accelerating and driving off, after the vehicle has warmed up it suddenly clears and will continue driving smoothly for the rest of the day and the immediate next day. It only does that when parked for a couple of days unused.

I have recently have my transmission fluid flushed it was very dark/black and front diff fluids replaced with fresh axle fluid but this particular problem still remains. It now shifts much more smoothly and nicely though.

Any further suggestions on what's needs to be done or serviced?

Kind regards,
Leroy

 

Well, as promised, I've tried a new method of dump and fill on my auto transmission fluid. Nothing special about a dump and fill where the fluid is changed in stages, mainly because you cannot get all the fluid out in one go. Some people just do one dump at each service but I thought I’d have a go at getting the majority of it out in one go. Draining is straightforward and so should the filling be - there’s a T55 filler plug on the top of the gearbox. That’s fine on a vehicle with a gear shift lever such as the Freelander 2 but the Evoque has a electronic gearchange unit mounted on a bracket and it’s this that must be removed to get at the filler plug. It’s connected to the box by a splined shaft and my fear was that it would go back wrong and give me grief. I did 6 dumps so the gearchange unit would have needed removing 6 times. That’s 6 chances of putting it back wrong!

Anyway, my method was devised to avoid touching the gearchange unit. I achieved this simply by buying a cheap 12v oil transfer pump from eBay for around £12. One of these:


I started by raising the vehicle slightly, removing the bottom cover and after removing the oil level checking screw, removed the 17mm combined drain/level plug. I had a 17 mm Allen bit but you could get by with using a 17mm nut with half in the plug and half in a socket.

The oil auto transmission level on the Evoque is checked by removing the T40 drain screw with the engine running and at a temperature of 50°-60° C. A drive round the block should get it near to this temperature range. The drain plug incorporates a tube that is used to set the level - remove screw with engine running and allow any excess oil to drain. If no oil comes out, oil should be added through the filler plug. This is the combined plug.


This is a picture of the old oil, next to a jug of the fresh oil:


After removing the plug, I drained approximately 3.7 litres out. I then refitted the plug. I replaced this fluid with fresh oil using a fluid transfer pump, pumping the fluid back up the level pipe. Like this:


When filling, I filled in two stages. 2 litres in first, then approx another 1.7 litres with the engine running. I repeated this 6 times as I had 20 litres of JWS 3324 fluid (£85 from Smith and Allan on eBay). Here’s a shot of each batch of oil removed and you can see the change in colour:


It’s even more noticeable on a sheet of white paper. Left to right with the last sample being fresh oil:


I didn't bother refitting the checking screw between dumps and I just selected gears P-R-N-D-S and back a few times after each fill. Finally I added approx 4 litres on the final fill and left the engine running for 15 mins to allow the oil to reach temperature and settle to the correct level before refitting the checking screw. I didn’t use a new washer or 'O' ring as they were fine. It was a slightly messy task, made worse by me dislodging the fill pipe once when filling which resulted in a nice oil puddle on my floor!

On the final fill, don’t switch the engine off with the filler screw removed as the fluid level rises when the engine is not running and it will auto drain through the fill level tube.

And that’s it. I’d like to say it drove a lot quieter and smoother but, just like when I serviced my Haldex, there was no difference afterwards as it was fine before I did this and hopefully, it will stay that way. That's the whole point of preventative maintenance!

great post, but I’m confused, how do you check the oil level, if you remove the drain plug?? Doesn’t all the oil just come out if you remove the drain plug?

I have just tried to do mine, I removed the smaller drain plug and 1.5L came out, so I just topped it up with 1.7L. I was really confused as how to actually check the level..

cheers

 

If you look at my second picture, you will see the drain plug. It incorporates a tube. Removing the whole drain plug allows you to drain a certain amount of fluid. The smaller 'drain plug' (let’s call it a level plug) allows any fluid higher than the tube to flow out. You must have the engine running before removing the level plug as oil is being pumped around the gearbox. When you switch the engine off, fluid will drain back into the box and exceed the height of the tube and flow out. So, to recap, with the gearbox up to temperature and with the engine running, the correct fluid level is in line with the top of the tube. With the level plug out, you could keep adding fluid but it would exceed the height of the top of the level tube and flow out. You need the plug back in before you switch off though!

 

Well, as promised, I've tried a new method of dump and fill on my auto transmission fluid. Nothing special about a dump and fill where the fluid is changed in stages, mainly because you cannot get all the fluid out in one go. Some people just do one dump at each service but I thought I’d have a go at getting the majority of it out in one go. Draining is straightforward and so should the filling be - there’s a T55 filler plug on the top of the gearbox. That’s fine on a vehicle with a gear shift lever such as the Freelander 2 but the Evoque has a electronic gearchange unit mounted on a bracket and it’s this that must be removed to get at the filler plug. It’s connected to the box by a splined shaft and my fear was that it would go back wrong and give me grief. I did 6 dumps so the gearchange unit would have needed removing 6 times. That’s 6 chances of putting it back wrong!

Anyway, my method was devised to avoid touching the gearchange unit. I achieved this simply by buying a cheap 12v oil transfer pump from eBay for around £12. One of these:


I started by raising the vehicle slightly, removing the bottom cover and after removing the oil level checking screw, removed the 17mm combined drain/level plug. I had a 17 mm Allen bit but you could get by with using a 17mm nut with half in the plug and half in a socket.

The oil auto transmission level on the Evoque is checked by removing the T40 drain screw with the engine running and at a temperature of 50°-60° C. A drive round the block should get it near to this temperature range. The drain plug incorporates a tube that is used to set the level - remove screw with engine running and allow any excess oil to drain. If no oil comes out, oil should be added through the filler plug. This is the combined plug.


This is a picture of the old oil, next to a jug of the fresh oil:


After removing the plug, I drained approximately 3.7 litres out. I then refitted the plug. I replaced this fluid with fresh oil using a fluid transfer pump, pumping the fluid back up the level pipe. Like this:


When filling, I filled in two stages. 2 litres in first, then approx another 1.7 litres with the engine running. I repeated this 6 times as I had 20 litres of JWS 3324 fluid (£85 from Smith and Allan on eBay). Here’s a shot of each batch of oil removed and you can see the change in colour:


It’s even more noticeable on a sheet of white paper. Left to right with the last sample being fresh oil:


I didn't bother refitting the checking screw between dumps and I just selected gears P-R-N-D-S and back a few times after each fill. Finally I added approx 4 litres on the final fill and left the engine running for 15 mins to allow the oil to reach temperature and settle to the correct level before refitting the checking screw. I didn’t use a new washer or 'O' ring as they were fine. It was a slightly messy task, made worse by me dislodging the fill pipe once when filling which resulted in a nice oil puddle on my floor!

On the final fill, don’t switch the engine off with the filler screw removed as the fluid level rises when the engine is not running and it will auto drain through the fill level tube.

And that’s it. I’d like to say it drove a lot quieter and smoother but, just like when I serviced my Haldex, there was no difference afterwards as it was fine before I did this and hopefully, it will stay that way. That's the whole point of preventative maintenance!

Mr. Steve D.,
Hello, My name is First Sergeant(Retired) Julio N. (whome25858 at gee mail com or 3605594189)... Please allow me to apologize for my confusion. However, I do have further and very specific questions pertaining to a "Complete Flush" of the transmission fluid. Is there a way where I can speak directly with you?

 

Click on the members name you want to speak to & select start conversation 👍🏻

 

Brilliant write up and with pictures 👍

Might be a dumb question as I know naff all about gearboxes but why does the oil need to be drained in 6 batches?

 

it flushes out the old oil completely

 

Steve's clever bit on top of the basic dump and fill multiple times, was to fill through the Level setting access, rather than remove the gear selector between dumps to access the filling port.

Top Job if I didn't say already!

 

That's why I love forums.
Gearbox fluid change has been on my list for the summer but had no idea how to do it without some research.

 

Apologies for resurrecting this thread. New to the forum but thought I would add an optional method to doing the fill after benefitting from @Steve D 's helpful advice and walk through here. Just did my first fluid swap earlier.

The fill port on a 2013 is easily accessible by removing the front left wheel. Once you do this, the fill port is right past the wheel housing. This will give you a relatively clear access to reach the fill port without having to dismantle the gear change unit. (which is good since I have to go back in there tomorrow to top off and re-level... I might have taken the leveling tube concept too literally as I allowed the fluid to leak until it leaked no more -- meaning I'm likely now on the low side)

 

One of the final steps to level out the new fluid before wrapping up the job is to bring the transmission fluid up to 50 - 60C. Can be accomplished using an IR thermometer or through the ECU -- however, there's no PID extension that I could find directly for the evoque.

I did find one on another forum for the LR2. The 2013 LR2 and Evoque are literally the same under the shell so tried it out. Seems to work (still need to verify with an actual temp measurement at some point that the ECU math is true):

PID: 22df0a
Long Name: Anything you want
Short Name: Same as above
Min Value: 0.0
Max Value: 100.0
Scale Factor" x1
Unit Type: deg C
Equation: A*256+B
OBD Header: 7e1

 

Is your MY2013 the 6 speed auto? I don't suppose you took a picture of where the fill plug is by any chance?

 

It is. Unfortunately, I thought I did but looks not to be the case.

That said, I can describe it.

Once you remove the left wheel, the transmission block is directly behind the wheel well. Off to the right side of the block, there's a bolt sitting at a 45 degree angle at the top. That's the fill plug -- you can confirm it by fitting a T50 bit into it. It it accepts it, then it's the fill plug (actually it's the only one at the position).

To fill it you'll need a hand pump or pressurized canister. The opening is 3/8" btw. I find it heldful to use a piece of 3/8" ro tubing to plug into the hole to bridge from the hand pump hosing. This keeps the fill hole sealed enough that shifting gears at each fluid swap cycle won't result in transmission fluid spraying from the engine running ( my experience matches Steve D's - took 6 drain and fills to reach an acceptable transmission fluid color) while keeping it conveniently enough to add fluid until you're satisfied.

 

@Macdexx just occurred to me i can at least use a photo of a transmission to indicate position of the fill plug... hah, i am slow today.

Last image with arrow is side you would see once you remove the wheel.

 

Well CA_Evoque, that well and truly answered my question. Thank you very much, I feel like this is definitely something I can do myself now.

 

You can also pop the air box off, one 10mm bolt, a jubilee clip and couple of twisty clips in the wing and it lifts up and lays on the engine cover with wires attached. The fill plug is directly below as @CA_Evoque says.
I haven’t decided if best access is from above or to the side as I need to do mine this year. I might do both, side to remove the plug and airbox to allow a gravity fill. (I am too tight to buy a pump 😂)

 

@Macdexx it's very doable. This was my first time doing the fluid swap. Started out feeling very daunted but once I figured out accessing the fill hole without having to remove the auto shift box, etc., it was very doable. ...and I might do this a bit more often. My original fluid came out black.

The trickier part is figuring out what level of "trickle" to allow for in terms of fluid auto leveling before reinserting the leveling plug. The answer is a mild sputtering stream.

 

@Binty I used one of these... at 8 USD, surely much more palatable converted to GBP.

The tube itself is too big to the fill hole but the 3/8" ro tubing i used to bridge is perfect . Snug fit into both the tubing of the pump and the fill hole itself.

 

Mild sputtering stream is a perfect description 🤪

 

Sounds like prostate issues to me 🥴😱

 

Interesting post, I am looking into replacing transmission fluid in our 2012 Evoque with 6 speed Aisin Warner TF80SC gearbox.

After some investigation I believe there are 2 different setups of the fill plug:

• 2011-2013 MY Evoque, with 6 speed Aisin Warner TF80SC gearbox, fill plug is right below the air filter box; If you remove the air filter box you will see the fill plug right below. easiest way to access.
• 2013 onwards, 9 speed gearbox, fill plug is placed under 45 degrees, more on the side of the gearbox, accessible when removing front wheel.

Is this correct?

 

I have a 2012 Evoque. Not sure what make gearbox I have but it is the 6 speed.

I made a thread on how I did it here.

Sorted another issue (ANOTHER LENGTHY THREAD WARNING 😁)

I'm on a role at the minute. Sorted out my none working surround cameras not too long ago and now my juddering issue. The issue I was having was that at between 1800 & 2000 rpm in any gear (6 speed auto) when the car had warmed up, it would judder when feathering the throttle. So dropping from...

www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk

 

Reading these posts it looks like there are 2 different locations of the fill plug on an Evoque 6 speed automatic gearbox? On one the top (Below Gear Shift Module?) and one 45 degrees on the side, accessible taking the front wheel off. Are these the same 1 plug, I dont think so?

I wonder, the official workshop manual states that the fill plug sits at the top of the gearbox, for the awf21/6 6 speed auto. Would the fill plug on the side 45 degrees fit the later 9 speed auto transmission?

puzzled….who helps me out?

 

I may be wrong but I think the fill plug on the 9 speed is in a different location & is filled until oil trickles out of the fill hole.

I think there a few ways to fill the 6 speed. By removing the gear shift module, from the wheel arch, some have taken off the airbox and some have refilled through the drain plug but essentially we are all filling through the same hole if we have the 6 speed.