Right we all know where to go for our haldex service, how you fixed for next saturday week?

 

Go to www.bellengineering.co.uk. I do not plan to be doing one again! I bought the kit from them and they do a drive in service for 180 quid all in and fit it while you go to a local pub for lunch and a stroll. If they were not so far from me I would have gone there myself!

 

Im sure Beast could do this In her lunch break.

 

180 doesn't sound bad if the kit is already £80, bet they don't take it right off like you though for 100 quid

 

Im sure Beast could do this In her lunch break.

Oh yes - easy peasy

 

Excellent job Steve, thanks for the great write up.

How long did it take?

 

I reckon it took me about 4 hours but at least an hour of that was spent on jacking it up (front and rear), supporting it on stands, working out how to remove the exhaust finishers/trim so that I could lower the exhaust as it is a Dynamic version and getting the rear prop released as it was stuck in the recess when the bolts were removed - I thought there may have been something else holding it! As I said, I could not get the rear of the prop off when it was unbolted (it is in a recess flange), there just was not enough movement to pull it out of the flange - I was having trouble levering it back and out of the flange before I eventually worked out that by lowering the nose of the diff the prop just fell out! I took my time as there was no rush. Oh, and you need to turn the prop to get at all 6 bolts. You cannot do that with the ignition off - it goes into park and the handbrake comes on! I got over that by leaving the engine running and the car in neutral. There is probably a sequence to get round that though, I just could not work it out at the time. On a ramp, knowing what I know now, I reckon I could comfortably do it in two hours. Someone doing it on a regular basis would probably do it in a lot less time than that.

You cannot get the pump out to clean the plastic mesh filter without removing the flange and it would be a real fiddle to replace the paper filter with the haldex on the car plus, as you can see from the pictures, there is still plenty of muck in the casing so personally, I would not bother with doing it any other way although I suppose a new filter and a partial change of oil would be better than nothing.

 

Thanks for posting that Steve, very interesting, the main reason for a Haldex pump failure will be the filters clogging.


Bell Engineering aren't so far for me, so think I might choose that option rather than do myself, unless my local centre do it for a similar price, will ask at the next service as I've now hit 50000.

 

Very interesting article Steve. Will be of great use to the more hands on amongst us

 

What mileage or frequency does JLR recommend this Haldex service?

 

I think it may be every 10 years. This service schedule does not actually specify the haldex, but it does specify 'change transmission fluid and filter'.
https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/...ix/content/pdf/view?file=/topix/service/procedure/157104/212849?ignore-mobile=1
There is no mention of it at all in a Freelander 2 service schedule and 2009 models onward use the same Haldex.
I think it is every 3 or 4 years or 20,000 miles on a VW with the same Haldex.
Such a difference between Manufacturers.

 

Thanks Steve, I saw that when searching before asking but expected to see the Haldex pump, filter and oil to be named specifically, silly me!

The service sheet is very interesting, I don't think my Stealer has ever removed the road wheels and JLR can't spell tyre!
Replace all the brake hoses at 6 years, now that is a surprise.

This is a really good post Steve, thanks for addressing the issue

 

Great writeup Steve, thanks alot

I read in the owner manual that the car can be put in neutral (parking brake off) with ignition ON and leaving the key in the car during towing procedure. Thus it can automatically engage the parking brake after a short while.


On my way down to my garage to get rid of the muck, and try the procedure.


"You cannot get thepumpout to clean the plastic meshfilterwithout removing the flange",


So you separate the flange from the unit, does anyone know the torque value when the flange goes back on ?


(have tried searching the 5000 page manual, dont have the time forextensive researchnow)

 

I just did mine up 'tight' with a drop of threadlock on the threads. It's not like a diff flange with a crush washer or a bearing requiring pre-load etc.

 

Thanks

 

Hey Steve, nice work!


What sort of driving has you Evoque done? (much off road/snow etc)


My 2012 SD4 Pure Tech has 55k miles on it and never been off road, so the Haldex unit has never been properly used under load etc.


What do you (all) think, leave it and not worry, find some loose hilly stuff and give it a workout?


Maybe just do an on car oil/filter change?


I intend to do as much maintenance as possible. (you think UK dealers are expensive...Try Australia!)


Thanks
Dave

 

I once went across a grassy car park area.....

Seriously though, the Haldex is used constantly on the road - it's not just for off-road.

 

Hi Steve, very interesting article. I have actually contacted Bell Engineering for a Haldex service. My recently purchased car had an issue where I turn the steering wheel to lock the rear wheel starts to slip and I feel a minor vibration. It only happens I sharp turn when coming out a parking stop for example. So I am hoping by servicing the unit it will sort this problem out...
Cheers

 

Did you get to the bottom of this issue? I have a similar feeling in my Evoque that I’ve just brought.

 

Hi Steve, very interesting article. I have actually contacted Bell Engineering for a Haldex service. My recently purchased car had an issue where I turn the steering wheel to lock the rear wheel starts to slip and I feel a minor vibration. It only happens I sharp turn when coming out a parking stop for example. So I am hoping by servicing the unit it will sort this problem out...
Cheers

Did you actually manage to make contact with Bell Engineering? I've tried phoning them countless times and sent emails, with no replies, to the point where I thought they must have ceased trading! I've been trying to get a Haldex service kit from them

 

Yes I did this was last week first phone call I got through and the chap was very helpful over the phone. The only problem I have is I am abit far from Bell Eng so was looking for someone more local to me to get the job done.

 

At 45K I thought I would do a bit of preventative maintenance and change my Haldex filter and oil. I bought the service kit from Bell engineering and it cost around 78 quid. Rather than fiddle about changing the filter in situ, I removed the haldex unit and got it on the bench to give it a thorough clean out. To remove it I first jacked the car up and put it on stands. To make things easier, I lowered the exhaust at the rear and disconnected the propshaft. To remove the rear propshaft end, I needed to lower the front of the rear axle and that involved supporting the axle with a jack and removing the front carrier bracket - 4x10mm headed bottom bolts and the two 18mm headed mounting bolts. Then it was simply a matter of disconnecting the electrical connection and removing the 4 bolts that connect the haldex unit to the axle housing. This what is left when the unit is removed.

This is the haldex unit on the bench. Look at the muck that was present on it!

I removed the paper filter and replaced it as well as the plastic pump filter. Look at the state of them! The muck seemed to be a type of gel.
Old and new filters.

Pump filter before cleaning.

And after cleaning with compressed air.

The housing had a bit of muck in it too.

Old oil and new oil.

Reassembled it, filled with new oil, ignition on for 5 minutes, topped up then withdrew 70ml. Job done.
Now, the car drives......no different to before.

Well, It is preventative. Here's to the next 45,000 miles!

Next job on the list will be to change all the transmission lubricants - auto box, front and rear axles and transfer box.

Front axle ??
Rear axle ??

it’s only got a gearbox ,IRD and rear diff/Haldex

 

Front and rear diffs then.

 

Thanks Steve for the excellent guide. Came in very handy.
Just to add a few things I found. After completing the Haldex service my wife’s car was still having issues, skipping/jumping from back wheel on full lock.
I found a handy guide showing a test procedure here. https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/lan...er-freelander-2-fl2-range-rover-evoque-haldex-fault-finding-problems-solutions/

I took off the Haldex ECU (2 Allan bolts). And pulled the N373 solenoid valve. That was covered in the same gel/sludge that was on the pump screen. I just renewed the valve as it was potentially stuck open. Definitely worth pulling the valve if you have the unit on the bench. As it allows you to clean things and blow out the internal passages with air.
On reassembly. plug the valve into the ECU and then push the whole assembly into place. Don’t try and put the valve in and then the ECU as you can damage the electrical connector.

Car seems to be behaving now.

 

Reza_sama hasn't been on here for over 3 years so I doubt you'll get a reply.

 

Had the exact same issue with the Wife’s Evoque.
Check this link for diagnostics.
https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/lan...er-freelander-2-fl2-range-rover-evoque-haldex-fault-finding-problems-solutions/
Note our car has Haldex Gen 4
1) I serviced the Haldex with new oil and filter.
Result: Car still jerking/vibration when turning on full lock.
2) Replaced N373 valve.
Result: as above.
3) Replaced Haldex Pump
Result: Problem fixed.

Hope that helps
Nick